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Ski's the limit for snowscapes in surprising places

EVEN though January is slipping away, it's still not too late to think about a ski trip. Especially when snow seems to be falling at such record levels in the western US that one wonders if some areas will be ploughed out enough to be accessible to travellers.

Perhaps you've just been lukewarm, torn between the possibility of soaking up some Arizona sunshine, checking out the Vegas lounge scene, maybe even savouring Reno's casinos, yet also have some time on the slopes.

Yes . . . you can have it all and much easier than you might imagine. Snow enthusiasts know all about the attractions of ever-popular Aspen, Vail, Sun Valley, Telluride, Mont Tremblant, Utah, and on through a long list of other headliners.

But how about Flagstaff, Arizona's Snow Bowl, Las Vegas' Mount Charleston, Reno's easy accessibility to Lake Tahoe's varied slopes?

These can save the day as a family compromise . . . one of those "keep the peace" decisions when part of your clan wants to strap on skis and the rest prefer golf, swimming and sunning.

Obviously these will not always be slopes that qualify for Olympic try-outs. But they are fun, allow vacationers to enjoy trips with a split personality and may surprise you!

Let's start with Las Vegas, a town that should be as noted for the beauty of its surrounding area as the more noted lure of its casinos. Mount Charleston, around 45 miles northwest of town, is definitely no minor slope. Charleston Peak, at 11,918 feet, is highest in the Spring Mountain range.

Locals have been skiing here since the 1930s and it's evolved into quite the sophisticated site. Those who find Las Vegas' sizzling summer heat too overwhelming also come there to cool off in shade of its ponderosa pine forests where air is clear and fresh year around.

Situated within Toiyabe National Forest (largest US forest outside Alaska), it caters to all levels of skiers. And if skiing isn't your thing, consider going out there for a sleigh ride. The US Forest Service has mapped out sleigh routes which will make you think you're on another planet from Vegas.

For more information, call Mount Charleston Lodge (702) 872-5408. Expect to pay $10 per person for a ten- to 15-minute sleigh ride per person. But always make local inquiry before heading up that way because when heavy snows settle in you might need chains on your car . . . or opt for a package tour out from town.

LAS Vegas and Reno are names in the news most recognisable to those who favour Nevada attractions. Back cover of this month's Nevada magazine was a full-page ad proclaiming: "Ski Tahoe, Stay Reno" . . . starting from $59 per person at the Nugget (www.janugget.com).

Ski choices included eight ski resorts an hour or less away, including Heavenly, North Star, Alpine Meadows, Squaw Valley and Mount Rose. Packages included two ski tickets daily.

Only 25 miles from Reno, Mount Rose recently opened 200 very challenging acres called "The Chutes" that were previously off-limits. Nine of the runs are for experts, seven for advanced skiers.

There's also a new high-speed six-passenger chair lift called the Blazing Zephyr that rushes skiers up to its 9,700-foot summit in three and a half minutes. All this was part of a recent $40 million investment.

But that's only part of the story. Mount Rose has around 1,200 acres of slopes with 43 trails. For more information, visit www.skirose.com or 1-800-SKI Rose.

Early on, this skier developed a preference for cross-country skiing. Although most ski areas were emphasising downhill skiing when I first took to the slopes, there were some that offered both. So I split ski time between them.

But there's something about the magic of following a forested trail winding through a wilderness area that becomes addictive. Whether in northern Wisconsin or a remote corner of Montana, it's so special that my focus soon settled there.

Those who feel so inclined now have some interesting choices. Today there are around 350 Nordic centres in the US (see www.xcski.org and www.crosscountryskiier.com)

Largest is Royal Gorge Cross Country Ski Resort at Soda Springs, California; www.royalgorge.com. Just 45 minutes west of Reno, Nevada, it offers more than 200 miles of groomed trails.

SO there are a lot of travel options. Spend some time in nearby Reno trying your luck in the casinos if that's your thing. There's also the possibility of exploring the Lake Tahoe area noted for prime resorts featuring all kinds of skiing.

Perhaps the Phoenix area holds some winter appeal for you. Did you know just over three hours north are the San Francisco Peaks, site of the Snow Bowl and one of Arizona's premier ski areas?

You don't even have to rent a car to get there since Open Road Tours and Transportation has shuttle service between Phoenix's Sky Harbour Airport and other pick-up spots to Flagstaff Amtrak station on a regular schedule; www.openroadtours.com. Or you can easily rent a car and drive the scenic divided highway up there.

The San Francisco peaks tower at 12,633 feet with an average annual snowfall of more than 260 inches. There's both Nordic (32 alpine trails) and downhill with a vertical drop of 2,300 feet.

There's also a view this traveller personally labels very special regardless of season. Those who don't view it in winter will find it worth a stop any season en route from Flagstaff north to the Grand Canyon only 76 miles further on. It's easily accessible off the main route leading there.

Don't expect the glamour and glitz of an Aspen or Vail . . . but the Snow Bowl, which opened in 1938, is among the oldest continually run US ski areas. It prides itself on being family oriented, "the place where Arizonans learn to ski"; www.arizonasnowbowl.com.

Ski Lift Lodge at the base of San Francisco Peaks in Coconino National Forest has 25 single-room cabins with gas fireplaces and full service restaurant. This is only seven miles from Flagstaff which has a long list of comfortable accommodations; (928) 774-0729.

Flagstaff Nordic Centre eight miles northwest of SnowBowl Road on Highway 180 has more than 40 kilometres of groomed ski trails, as well as 15 kilometres of snowshoe trails. Rental equipment is available at both sites.

There are special, unique bonuses to visit a place like this off-season. This traveller will never forget the opportunity to visit nearby Lowell Observatory and view rings of Saturn through its famous telescope . . . a magic experience despite feelings of near frostbite!

Perhaps none of the above has inspired you to call your travel agent to make winter reservations. How about this conversation stopper . . . seal watching? Fly into Quebec and savour delights of that historic city. Then schedule one of the most unusual new cruises offered to intrepid sailors.

Each Saturday this winter, cruise ship ferry Le Vacancier sails from Matane on the mainland for four- day, four-night getaways in the Madeleine Islands. Each winter, from late February until mid-March depending on weather, an estimated five million seals swarm across ice fields.

Around 250 furry white seal pups snuggle into snowy ice flows, watching as their mothers fish and feed their offspring. In between seal watching, sometimes via helicopter, there's dog-sledding, ice fishing, sea-kayaking, hiking and Zodiac trips through offshore ice floes.

And these islands are noted for their hospitality and fine food, hopefully before a warming fireplace. Even the coolest Bermuda winter will seem warm after this, but it is one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences; www.tourismeilesdemadeleine.com.

Not ready at the moment for any of the above? Well, this is only January. Come June until October, South America will be in the midst of its own ski season with Andes slopes in the news. Again, there are many choices . . . some are only half an hour inland from the sea, others cling to volcanic slopes. In fact, one, Caviahue, is actually in a volcanic cone.

Choices are tempting . . . from Argentina's Catedral Alta Patagonia, the country's largest, to Chile's Portillo. These can be part of a wider South American adventure planned with your travel agent's help.

This traveller must confess that when offered press credentials to cover a World Cup ski event this winter, I opted for time in Tucson, Arizona's sun instead.

There was always the option of heading up to Mount Lemmon's ski slope if desired, where the view driving there is alone worth the trip!