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Spread your wings in 2003

PERHAPS one of your New Year's resolutions involves a determination to not only spend more time travelling, but to try something totally different from your ordinary itineraries.

You know....the inclination to "Spread your wings, try a number of different things." Your friends, friendly travel agent, all sorts of people you meet everyday, can be a source of new and lively ideas to send you exploring in exciting directions. Talk travel with them and you'll learn possibilities come from surprising sources.

My dentist turned out to be a perfect example. I'd seen him for a check-up only once after our long-time family dentist retired and now I was in his office for a second time. But I'd never been examined in the room that contained an impressive painting of the Civil War battle at Kennesaw Mountain, Georgia.

When I admired it, he responded, "I bought it at a Civil War Ball auction."

"Are you a Civil War buff", I asked. It turned out for the last 15 years he and his son have participated in the Gettysburg Civil War re-enactment. "It's the 140th anniversary of the battle over July 4th this year and we're expecting 20,000 participants."

Sixty something...very quite and mild mannered...it was the last thing I'd expect him to be doing. As a commanding artillery Captain in the re-enactment, he participates in many such events annually, overnights in encampment tents, "But I don't eat hardtack!"

With other patients waiting, we spent some mutually informative time exchanging battlefield experiences. He told me anecdotes about his favoured sites - I suggested he include Harpers Ferry and Antietam in this year's itinerary. Ever considered attending one? We happened upon authentically costumed family participants at Vicksburg, Mississippi a couple of years ago and it was quite intriguing.

Yes, everyone knows these are challenging travel times to be trying something different in certain parts of the world. The list of off-limits destinations grows ever longer. It seems every other January for as long as I remember, our cruise ship stopped at LaGuaira, port of Caracas, Venezuela. That certainly won't be happening in the immediate future.

Pilgrimages including Jerusalem and Jordan are certainly on the back burner. Can it be less than three years ago that we tentatively booked a Middle East cruise stopping in Yemen and were investigating the possibility of joining popular new, always sold-out extensions into Iran where female participants were required to wear a veil.

When three of Mother Teresa's nuns were assassinated in Yemen and the US Government repeated their strong discouraging warnings to Jim, we recovered our sanity and cancelled.

If you're the kind of traveller lured by unusual off-trail destinations, as we are, things will never be quite the same again. But there are some very worthy and exciting possibilities that will be the subject of upcoming series...

Capetown, South Africa and haunting Robbin Island are definitely worth the long haul flight. Wales, that very distinct and delightful corner of the British Isles, will be explored from Dylan Thomas' colourful village, through new surprises at Caernarvon Castle and into stately private castles accepting a few privileged guests.

We'll also be visiting wealth of "finds" scattered across the English countryside that can be as exciting as any place on earth and I know writing about them will put me in the mood for an encore visit.

Alaska is on the writing-series schedule and it's taken my family a lifetime to discover its far corners since our first trips there as children. We're already analysing cruise brochures for a repeat trip, even before I write up this series. It may help you choose ports.

Some fascinating, easily accessible New England sites will also be visited, with tempting shopping possibilities. How about an out-of-the-ordinary back country adventure trip to some dazzling beauty spot. Ready to discover new and challenging golf courses, participate in a sports tour, maybe a really out-of-the-ordinary fishing trip? You'll reading about them in weeks to come.

Although more areas of the world are increasingly threatened, there's plenty to keep travellers busy. And, of course, France is on our personal calender for an encore - preview look at Normandy and Brittany where big 60th anniversary commemorative events are planned next year recalling D-Day landings of 1944.

Understandably, everyone's level of tolerance toward travel challenges is different. Some are deterred by the threat of possible terrorism, others aren't.

Egypt is a case in point. A journalist I know (formerly travel editor of a major New York newspaper) visited Cairo recently on assignment. Walking from the Pyramid of Cheops to Mena House Hotel, he was angrily stoned by children antagonistic toward westerners. Definitely not a pleasant experience.

Other European writers there for a conference felt he shouldn't write about such an incident. Really? Whatever happened to truth in travel journalism. No, writers shouldn't seek out minor problems, but when someone is stoned, it's only fair to warn travellers.

I know another journalist and his photographer wife who actually accepted an invitation from Egypt last year. He was very quiet about it all on his return and when our paths crossed recently, I asked if he'd written about it. "Not yet...I want to do some romantic articles so I'm waiting a bit." Hummmmm.

Last year I wrote about my bank chairman being singled out by an Egyptian government guard at Queen Hatshepsut's tomb who pointed a machine gun at him and demanded the chairman accompany him to a secluded area where he asked for money. When the banker offered him 20, he demanded 100.

"You can't imagine how it feels to have someone pointing a gun at you in a place where over 50 tourists were massacred by terrorists."

If you find Egypt as fascinating as this writer does, there is a safe nonchallenging alternative to enjoy a sample of its heritage. A Pharaonic exhibition "The Quest For Immortality" will be touring the US and Canada for the next five years. Organised by the American Federation of Arts, British Museum and Egypt, it initially opened in Washington, is now in Boston and will be touring to Dallas, Cleveland, New Orleans, Houston, Denver, Los Angeles, Montreal and Toronto.

The King TutAnkhAmun exhibit which toured the US in 1976-77 featured 55 unforgettable relics. The current exhibition features 143 antiquities chosen to trace ancient Egyptian civilization emphasign the rein of King Thutmosis III. It includes sarcophagi, wooden and granite statues and a collection of ancient gold jewellery.

My track record visiting Cairo's Egyptian museum has been very checkered. The first times a few years after the '67 and then '73 wars found it sandbagged, in darkness and cases badly in need of cleaning. You practically needed a flashlight to find your way around. That trip King Tut's most fabulous pieces were away on a travelling exhibit.

Next trip it had vastly improved and since my hotel, the Nile Hilton was next door, I stopped in for a daily visit. But again, major treasures were off travelling, so it pays to take advantage of viewing these overseas exhibits, www.egyptiantreasures.org.www.egyptsearch.com.

If you're bound for a major US city anytime soon, you may also want to know about other major museum exhibitions. New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art's "Blythe Spirit - The Windsor Set" - will continue until February 9. It features high fashion by Chanel, Lanvin, and Schiaparelli.

Another headliner is their "African American Artists Exhibit". Scheduled from January 15 - May 4, it will feature over eighty works from the period between 1929 - 1945. If focuses on daily life of African Americans during the latter period of the Harlem Renaissance. Depression and WWII and includes woodcuts, wood engravings, lithography, paintings and watercolours.www.metmuseum.org.

Chicago's Art Institute's "The Medici, Michelangelo and The Art of Late Renaissance, Florence" will be on display until February 2. Then it moves to Detroit's Institute of Arts March 16 - June 18. It presents 200 paintings, sculptures, porcelains, tapestries and costumes, many of which have never left Florence.

Here are a few other possibilities if you're looking for something different. How about seeing the world on a study tour. Spending our Junior year studying in Europe was a big thing when I was in college. It's not too late, whatever our age... The National Trust for Historic Preservation has a long list of study tours that are not only enjoyable vacations but enriching ones, as well.

Consider these possibilities. Coming up almost immediately is Jamaica's Historic Georgian Architecture study tour February 9-13, followed by Historic Barbados March 1-7. Two special itineraries this summer and autumn will follow footsteps of Lewis and Clarke before the bicentennial of their incredible journey is commemorated in 2004.

Art and architecture take prominence in several adventures...one to St. Petersbury, February 24 March 6. The Russian government pledged to spend $1.5 billion rejuvenating that Russian architectural gem, birthplace of Prime Minister Putin, for its 300th anniversary this year. I found it intriguing on my first 70's visit to watch very creative craftsmen working to restore major palaces that had suffered WWII damage.

The list is long and very popular.... "Glory of the Moors" visits Spain in late March, an April art tour explores Provence. More information from national Trust Study Tours (800) 944-6847 or (202)588-6300. www.national trust.org.

There was a time people planned such tours up to a year in advance. How things have changed since September 11. Travel Agent Magazine reports bookings are now made very close in...sometimes less than a week or even within days, which presents a challenge to your travel agent. But if you're flexible, a lot of last minute opportunities are available.

Also a major player in the study tour league is the Smithsonian, long noted for its enriching learning vacations. Very comfortably priced, these visit interesting destinations in the company of an expert study leader...but with plenty of time for independent discovery.

In reviewing their most recent brochure, several especially caught my attention.... "Wonders of Ireland", seven days air inclusive from Boston and New York starting at $1449...Newfoundland and Labrador, ten days air inclusive from Boston or New York for $2299. The list again is long and tempting. Australia and New Zealand, Italy France, England, Ireland, Canada. "Museum Lovers Vacations" to London, Paris and Amsterdam include museum passes...Smithsonian Institution membership, top hotels, some meals. Call (800) 528-8147 or www.collettevacations.com/smithsonian/travel adventures.

Ever consider whale watching? If you're California bound, over 26,000 grey whales travel from Alaskan waters down to Baja California and back annually. This 12,000 mile round trip trek is longest known distance any mammal migrates annually.

They travel in small groups about 70 to 80 miles per day close to shore for protection from predators like killer whales. By mid-February the migration pattern starts heading back to chilly Arctic water of Alaska's Bering Sea.

Point Reyes National Seashore in Marin County offers one of the best viewing sites. For details on naturalist talks and shuttle service there call (415)464-5100.

This migration generally lasts through April with many festivals celebrating their passage. Mendocino's is March 1-2 (800) 726-2780; Fort Bragg March 15-16 (800)726-2780; Santa Barbara March 29-30 (805) 897-3187. There's even a glassed-in whale watching observatory at Cabrillo National Monument on Point Loma in San Diego (619)557-5450).

These are just a few of many and they're all quite lively. Usually they include whale-watching walks, chowder tasting, craft fairs, music, boat excursions and general hoopla.www.visitcalifornia.com.

Thinking Mardi Gras? This is the two hundredth anniversary of the Louisiana Purchase by Thomas Jefferson and the whole state will be celebrating year long, not just New Orleans. Learn more about activities from www.louisianapurchase 2003.com.

Like to travel further afield? Would it surprise you to learn $499 can bring you five days and four nights in Guatemala. That includes round trip airfare via TACA airlines from Miami, hotel, transfers, English speaking guides. For more info contact Guatemala Tourist Office (800)557-0017 infogtearthlink.net.