THE road from Durango north to Silverton and on to Ouray, Colorado is called The Million Dollar Highway for good reason. It's so-named because low grade ore was used in its construction after the route was blasted out from the side of sheer mountains which plunge precipitously down into the river below.

It all starts out serenely enough, weaving its way up through dense forest land, passing Purgatory Ski Area twenty-five miles north on Highway 550. There will be some very desirable accommodations along the way catering to skiers and outdoorsmen focusing on fishing, horseback riding and general mountaineering. On occasion we've rented one of those sizable, comfortably priced condos.

Soon you arrive at Silverton nestled into a narrow valley between Molas and Red Mountain Passes. Although it's name comes from the many millions of silver taken from its mines, there were also ample gold, lead, zinc and copper production.

Now it's decision time. Of course, you've rented a vehicle capable of four wheel drive roads or you wouldn't want to be here to begin with.

You'll want to spend some time browsing shops, linger over lunch and photograph the dramatic arrival of the Rio Grande Western train. There are some close-to-town old mining sites like Eureka which we never bypass and you won't want to either.

But the real temptation is the old mining road over Engineer Pass (elevation 12,800 ft.) and Cinnamon Pass (elevation 12,620 feet). Called the Alpine Loop, sixty-five narrow miles of gravel connect Silverton, Lake City and Ouray.

It's in a lot better condition now than when miners hauled ore over it with mule-drawn wagons a century ago. And it's better maintained than in my youth when it could still be hazardous to your survival. But although spectacular with mountain vistas surrounding you, it is definitely not for everyone.

Admittedly this kind of backroading does have its hazards and should not be attempted by those who feel any apprehension. Early on in my career as a travel journalist, I just assumed anything so spectacular would appear to everyone. It didn't take long to learn differently after writing an article for "Today's Health" magazine published by the American Medical Association for display in doctors offices around the country. Writing about the paved section between Silverton and Ouray that clings to a sheer cliff, I received interesting mail from some traumatised, but well-travelled doctors. All admitted this was the most beautiful scenery they had seen anywhere in the entire world. But they felt a warning about the road should be included in the description. Several were so terrified they were tempted to get out and abandon their car, especially when driving on the cliff side.

The sight of cars far below who didn't make it was definitely not encouraging. Happily, thanks to further blasting, that section of the Million Dollar Highway has been widened. But the low stone wall along the edge that gave a faint sense of security had been removed on my last trip there . . . temporarily, I hope.

First of all, stop at one of the two information centres in Silverton to check on local backroading conditions. (800) 752-4494 or (970) 247-2733 for train info. www.silverton.org. They'll be a good source of information.

We have stayed here occasionally, but most often settle into Ouray, partly because of its scenery, fabulous open air mineral pool and the very special memories of having come there over a lifetime.

Don't expect to travel fast. . .there's plenty along the route to tempt off-trail wanderers. Lots of ghost towns (prowling through ruins of one, I once discovered an antique kerosene lamp plus a lucky horseshoe).

Autumn visitors may follow a Basque sheepherder down the road as he brings his flock off the slopes for winter. . .or ride herd on a cattle round up driven down from high country into lower meadows, scenes we've often encountered in fall.

If time permits, and you feel confident on these old mining roads, you'll want to visit Lake City. . .or enquire about a guided day trip there. Like the California-bound Donner Party where some members went down in history books with the very black mark of cannibalism beside their name. . .Lake City had a similar ghastly incident.

Ute Chief Ouray warned a mining party against heading into these mountains during winter. . .but prospector Albert Packer and five companions ignored his advice, plunging into the wilderness. In spring Packer came out, but the five others were found cannibalised. He was arrested, escaped, later tried, convicted, sentenced... And it's still the main subject in the town which is now a National Historic District.

Surprisingly, though it seems remote even today, Susan B. Anthony arrived there in 1887 to speak about the suffrage movement. Today it's gaining popularity as a trout fishing site with cabins scattered along Lake San Cristobal.

Now we're finally on our way to the real piece de resistance, the frosting on the cake. Dazzled by what they've already seen, it's hard to imagine the best is yet to come. Within a fifteen mile radius of Ouray, seventy-one peaks compete for attention. Seven are over fourteen thousand feet high, countless others thirteen thousand feet into the clouds.

OTTO Mears literally chiseled this one time toll road out of cliffs back in the 1880s . . . so it can be called a cliffhanger in more ways than one! A sign overlooking one particularly overwhelming panoramic pull-off near Ouray proclaims this "The Switzerland of America".

Yet there's a vastness here unknown in Europe's Alps. Standing atop viewpoints in Switzerland, Austria, Germany, France and Spain we've heard fellow Americans get ecstatic over the view and can never resist saying, "But have you seen southwestern Colorado?" We've found sections of the Pyrenees resemble it most, one reason why many Basques have made these mountains home.

But there's more to this region than superb, description-defying scenery. There's the flavour of a frontier, only partly tamed. . .the haunting memory of boomtown history livelier than any whoop-it-up television or Hollywood western.

Ouray itself is a rare jewel wedged into a narrow shelf of valley completely encircled by peaks. They stand sentinel-like protecting this Shangrila from intrusion by the outside world. Named for the great Ute chief, the valley was a favourite camping ground of Indians who bathed in hot springs still bubbling there.

Today those same waters fill the southwest's largest. . .and certainly most scenic, swimming pool, 150 by 280 feet. "Uncompahgre", their Ute word for hot water springs, now also labels a local river, mountain and gorge. Oh, the hours my family has spent in that pool with heads aswivel gazing at the mountains that literally encircle it.

Temperature in the warm, soak-out-aches-and-pains area is 104 degrees, but cooled down for swimming in the larger section. One afternoon we met singer John Denver sitting along "the soaking wall".

Obviously, there have been many changes over our years of travel here, but much remains as reminder of 1875's silver boom and the even richer gold strikes of '96. "Prospectors swarmed over these mountains leaving ten thousand holes within a radius of ten miles," recalled one native. "They weren't much interested in the view. . .to them it was just another obstacle."

The entire area offers some of the most exciting jeeping in North America. On that first trip in the late 1950s we arrived in a Pontiac definitely unsuitable for backroading. My father arranged to hire the local sheriff to take us up over those roads in his jeep when he was off duty and it was some scary experience. There were sections of the trail where being blindfolded might have helped calm my nerves.

Now on every encore visit, we drive along those trails ourselves. Favourite is the route switchbacking out of Ouray up past Canyon Creek to Tom Walsh's 1896 bonanza at Camp-Bird Mine, then continues climbing on to Yankee Boy Basin. As much as four million dollars a year came out of the Camp Bird and helped put the Hope diamond in Evelyn Walsh McLean's jewellery box.

There's a wild, other world sort of beauty to be found here. But there's softness too as narrow rocky ruts weave past mountain meadows completely carpeted in larkspur and columbine. This route is only one of many, some accessible by day package tours.

But definitely don't make the mistake of attempting it in an inadequate vehicle. There have been times when I've had to get out of the four-wheeler and direct Jim on a treacherous turnaround with a foot between the vehicle's wheels and disaster. He never lets me forget that once up on Mt. Sneffels in just such a challenging situation, I got out to do that but took my purse with me. I insist it was just instinct and not abandonment!

Showing the area to a friend a couple of years ago got too scary for comfort. They insisted on going ahead along a treacherous, rutted, cliffside trail with thousands of feet drop-off in an inadequate vehicle. I protested vehemently, but there was no stopping their explorer enthusiasm and they forged ahead. It ended with me out along the trail in pouring rain with help of a jeepster coming down towards us, both of us desperately trying to manoeuvre the vehicle off the rocks on which the driver had struck the car because of its too low clearance.

THESE are one-track roads and passing with scary drop-offs can sometimes be a nightmare. Generally the rule of the road here is the vehicle coming up has right-of-way and the one descending has to back up somehow. But there are times that the driver doesn't have the courage to do it and you have to.

The point I'm trying to make here is not to over encourage nor discourage you, but to make sure you know what to expect once you leave the highway. You'll want to savour the scenery, but may decide to let a jeep tour take you back-of-the-beyond. This is definitely not a place for aggression or excessive timidity.

One can only imagine what it was like to haul heavy ore over such trails in a wagon. A copper mine in which my maternal grandfather had a financial interest had some of Arizona's richest copper deposits, but the only access out with the ore through that rugged country was via mule.

After an afternoon adventuring, you'll be ready to head down to the valley and relax in the pool There are also a couple of interesting museums, ample shops including antique ones and a variety of good places to stay and fun restaurants.

It wasn't always that way. In the early days, we were lucky to be able to rent a restored and charming vintage miner's log cabin complete with several bedrooms, living room, kitchen and large porch side apricot tree loaded with fruit. I'll never forget spending a very special birthday there as a youngster. Nowadays there's a big choice. Check them out at www.Ouray Colorado.com or through (970) 325-4746.Truth is there's still much to do and see. . .we've not yet taken you north to Ridgeway and Telluride, which both offer more knockout scenery. Nor down along the route to Dolores and Ophir. But I have written about it briefly here before.

Close by Ridgeway is where John Wayne filmed "True Grit" and brother Jim considered buying a ranch with dazzling views after graduating from law school. My father discouraged him from becoming an absentee landlord and Ralph Lauren eventually bought the place. Lauren was dining in Ridgeway's True Grit restaurant at the next able with his son last time we ate there.

We've yet to make it over challenging Imogene Pass Mine Trail from Ouray to Telluride. We were well on the way last trip when we had a flat tyre and had to turn back. Better luck next time!

(Next week - Visiting Concord, Massachusetts)