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Welsh wonders: Tying up the loose ends

HOW can we begin to tie up all those loose ends we've left dangling when it comes to describing the wonders of Wales? It's not an easy task covering a country the size of Massachusetts with a population of almost three million widely scattered over such a diverse and dramatic slice of geography.

Perhaps a good way to begin is following the lead of the Welsh themselves. When I talked to the chairman of the Wales Tourism Board, Philip Evans, I was met with a bouquet of jonquils, the national flower . . . then presented with a list of ten must-see-and-do things. Just to be sure nothing was overlooked, the list contained 11 suggestions!

Here they are: Follow the Dylan Thomas Trail, visit St. David's and the wildly scenic Pembrokeshire coast, relive Welsh history at a sumptuous country home or castle. We've covered all those in detail.

Continuing, the list says don't miss mighty Harlech Castle, a World Heritage Site like Bermuda's own treasured St. George's. And remember it's only one of more than 400 castles and ancient fortifications found in every corner of Wales.

We told you about Caernarfon last week and mentioned Harlech. But by no means bypass Coch, Conwy or Caerphilly, all standouts, each completely different.

If you're driving north from Cardiff towards Caernarfon on the A470 you'll soon pass Castell Coch, a true fairytale design worthy of a Sleeping Beauty legend. A 19th-century fantasy creation, it was built for the very wealthy Marquis of Bute as a retreat from his Cardiff Castle described earlier in this series.

Extravagantly eccentric, this shouldn't be missed. It's what Ludwig of Bavaria might have done in a subdued mood. Gilded botanical prints with parrots and foliage on walls and dome of a bedroom-sitting room are real conversation stoppers.

Then take a short detour over to Caerphilly, if only to photograph the 13th-century beauty surrounded by defensive lakes. Built on the earlier site of a Roman stronghold, it bears battle scars but was rescued and restored by Marquis Bute.

I attended a formal reception in its great hall, but if you're rushed, viewing it from a vantage point across the road is worthwhile. Edward II stayed here when it was owned by Hugh le Despenser. Later Despenser decided the massive stronghold was lacking in comfort and moved on.

Grand finale on my drive back to Heathrow was a stop at Conwy, yet another of Edward I and military engineer James of St. George's masterful creations. There wasn't time for a tour, but circling the massive site and driving around the town still nearly totally enclosed by its original walls left a desire to return for a closer look.

Very much towards the top of the "top ten" list was meeting the Welsh. Croeso, the Welsh word for welcome, is expressed everywhere from markets and pubs to restaurants and hotels. That's one of the joys of travelling by car . . . there's a wonderful, relaxed opportunity to linger and chat.

With no set schedule, it's possible to stay and talk with the personable owner of that antique shop, ask that savvy gardener tending what could be classed an award worthy display how they work such magic, or learn about Welsh life from many other interesting locals met along the way. Isn't that one of the joys of travel?

Number ten on that list was "Listen to the music". It's truly synonymous with Wales. Whether the harp is soothing frayed nerves over dinner, or the famed Eisteddfod, music here is different, a very essential part of life.

The harp is considered Wales' national instrument and has been for a millennium. Like their Celtic Irish cousins, Welsh dinners, banquets and other social events are enhanced by such melodies.

Choral tradition is so strong here that male voice choirs raised in song have made Llangollen's International Musical Eisteddfod world-famous. This year's dates are July 7-13; www.internationaleisteddfod.co.uk

SITE of the National Eisteddfod moves from North to South Wales in alternative years. This year it's in Meifod from August 2-9; www.eisteddfod.or.uk/english

Keep your eyes open for local notices of any such choral choir performances because they are justly famed. You'll find plenty of sites where these marvellous choirs can be heard.

The top ten list suggests exploring beauties of Brecon Beacon National Park. We took you there for tea earlier; check the web site www.breconbeacons.npa.gov.uk/tour

Still on the scenic side, they suggest beachcombing on Anglesey, also water busing across Cardiff Bay. Captain Scott set sail from here in 1910 on his expedition to Antarctica.

One suggestion we haven't covered is Arthurian myths and legends. The traveller will hear about caves where Arthur slept, possible locations of his Camelot and fabled round table, islands that could be Avalon . . . and it's claimed Merlin the Magician was born in Wales, as well as Guinivere.

Interestingly, ages ago I was on an archaeological dig not that far from Cardiff where experts felt they had discovered an Arthurian site because of coins, artifacts and so on. But that's another story!

Wales' wondrous historic train treasures deserve a feature all their own. A rail buff could happily spend an entire vacation riding around the country on these exquisitely preserved gems; www.greatlittletrainsofwales.co.uk

The list suggests birdwatchers visit a Red Kite Centre. This endangered bird of prey is found in Wales' hill areas. Forty years ago it was almost extinct. Protecting its nesting sites even involved soldiers from the Gurkha Regiment. Those who enjoy Bermuda's Nonsuch Island (home of the rare cahow) as much as I do will find this an especially interesting experience.

How could we have got this far without mentioning such famous Welshmen as Anthony Hopkins, Richard Burton, Charlotte Church and Tom Jones? Probably because they're already so well known, as is part-time Bermuda resident Catherine Zeta-Jones.

WHILE on the subject of prominent names, many are very traditional, unmistakenly Welsh. Just as Trimingham, Darrell, Gosling and Tucker are easily recognised as old Bermuda names . . . Evans, Jones, Davis, Williams, Denbigh and Morgan are among a long list of Welsh ones. Many facilities to help visitors trace their roots exist in Wales.

If you want to check out some Welsh scenery Hollywood-style, there are some surprises at the video counter. Parts of both Ingrid Bergman's Inn of the Sixth Happiness and James Bond's From Russia With Love were filmed in Snowdonia.

The Englishman Who Went Up A Hill And Came Down A Mountain had some Welsh locations. So did The Prisoner, Under Milkwood and even Sabu, The Elephant Boy. Add First Knight and Merlin, both involving Arthurian legends so popular here.

Mention Wales and life in the collieries (coal mines) as depicted in How Green Was My Valley immediately comes to mind. Cefn Coed Colliery Museum is on my personal list of places to visit next time. Five miles northeast of Neath, it was site of one of the world's deepest anthracite mines. The equipment is all still there, a memorial to those who worked in the mines. From depths to heights . . . would it surprise you to learn mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary and his team practised climbing on Snowdon before tackling Everest? It's beautiful to look at and mountaineers are well aware of the fact its summit can be both icy and treacherous, with snow possible near its heights any time of year.

Hiking is big news here with a very outdoor-oriented population. For golfers, 200 courses are beginning to attract the type of enthusiast normally lured to Scotland and Ireland. Oldest is The Burrows at Tenby in Pembrokeshire. Founded in 1888, its seaside location has scenery of Pembrokeshire Coast National Park as a bonus.

TWO other headliners are Royal St. David located within Snowdonia National Park directly below Harlech Castle. Talk about an overwhelming setting! Royal Porthcawl is another links course with dazzling sea views and more than its share of challenges. It hosted the 1995 Walker Cup.

There's even a surprising cross-border course at Llanymynech where some holes are in England, others in Wales. In 2010 the country plays host to the Ryder Cup at Celtic Manor Resort near Newport.

A national holiday is celebrated on March 1 in observerance of the date of St. David's death in 589. Don't be insulted if someone comes up and pins a leek on your jacket. It is a national symbol, patriotically worn on what is both a religious and patriotic secular holiday.

Why the leek? Legend proclaims St. David advised Britons to wear leeks in their caps in a battle with Saxons so they could identify friend from foe.

The same is said to have occurred when Welshmen fought with Henry V in 1415 at the Battle of Agincourt. The tradition is still so strong that Welsh regiments celebrate St. David's Day by eating a raw leek.

Travel factfile: British Airways has non-stop service from Bermuda to London's Gatwick Airport, which certainly makes life easier for travellers who only have to go through security checkpoints once en route. Ask about BA's fly-drive packages, a good dollar value and the ideal way to see Wales.

Next week: What's happening around the travel world?