A pigeon pea mystery
Whether it was due to an accident of history, discouraging strong winds, or other factors that prevented pigeon peas from becoming a part of Bermuda’s cultural history and cuisine as they did in the Caribbean it would be interesting to know.Few gardeners plant them here even though they are quite easy to grow, require little attention and are a rich source of protein. There are other compelling reasons to grow pigeon peas: They carry a legacy of migration, survival, culture and ecological value.The following pigeon pea-inspired poem speaks to the significance of pigeon peas in the African and Indian Diasporas, which many Bermudians may relate to even though few have any memory of an association with this pea. The poem is reprinted from the Caribbean Studies Journal, Anthurium Volume 7, Issue 1 & 2, with kind permission from the Trinidadian poet, Lelawatee Manoo-Rahming.Shelling Pigeon PeasGungo, toor, gandulesPulse off the tongueStaccatoExotic like some importBut the true importIs not the high-yield pigeon peaCommon in the tropics from India to AfricaParamaribo to NassauThe true import is the peopleBlack, brown and yellowWho came in wavesThrough seawater wavesIn ships slave and cargoBlack, brown and yellowCompartmentalisedLike peas in podsOblate, boat-shapedPeople podsForming ties across bounds Jahaji bhaiBoat brothers and then blood brothersJahaji bahin sisterbloodFinding solace in shelling peasShelling the stigma of servitudeCollecting the protein-richSeed encapsulated in greenFlavouring pots of nostalgic stewChristmas pelauPea soup, rice n’peasPeas shelled by these handsOn the day afterNobel Laureate Derek WalcottTouched these same handsSpoke his words,Development must consider povertyWe are of poverty but we are notPoor of spiritFor we are the childrenOf the black, brown and yellow peopleWho came in podsAcross blackened seasWho sloughed off painLike they sliced sugar caneWho sucked on saltAte sada roti with oil and pepperBanded their belliesBent their backsAnd cutlassed clear pathsThrough the burning caneFor us allTo find our wayTo the river cool and brightNames, production and consumptionPigeon pea, (Cajanus cajan L.) in Swahili is ‘mbaazi’. Elsewhere they are called Congo, gungo, gumbo, gandules and no eye peas, toor, red grams, and others names. One billion people in 82 countries rely on them as a main source of protein. India, Africa and Central America are the top producers, in that order, (Wikipedia) with India growing 90 percent from 100 varieties. It is an important canning export in the Dominican Republic, Trinidad, Puerto Rico, South America and Hawaii. It is grown primarily for home consumption in Africa and other Caribbean islands and widely used as a nitrogen fixing cover crop in semi-arid areas.Origins and associationsIt is not known with certainty from which country pigeon peas originated but it is certain, according to experts, they were grown in ancient times in Africa and India and came with slavery to western shores.Pigeon peas are small, round, tan to brown peas often used in the Caribbean dish Rice n’ Peas and Indian Toor Dahl curries. They can be found in the dried bean section of supermarkets, but are not usually served in Bermudian homes. So why encourage growing pigeon peas if it is not a part of our local culture and cuisine?Practical reasonsFish and meat have become costly and it makes sense to supplement the most expensive portion of the food bill with nutritious protein plants that can be home grown for free. Pigeon peas, unlike most food legumes, grow on bushes 4 - 8 feet high lasting three to five years. They are considered an important survival food because they are a low input crop that tolerates poor soils and a wide range of soil pH from as low as 5.0 to as high as 8.0. (Bermuda’s is in the upper range). While they favour moist conditions they tolerate drought, heat, and long-term stress. The branches are brittle and cannot withstand strong winds nor tolerate salt spray. However, if branches snap new leaves will sprout below the break.All legumes have bacteria in root nodules that fix free nitrogen from the atmosphere in the soil. Pigeon peas are excellent nitrogen fixers and increase the availability of phosphorus bound up with iron in the soil. This benefit alone is a good reason to plant them.Deep-rooting pigeon pea bushes break up hard soil, improve soil structure and drainage, and utilise nutrients as deep as six feet where other plants can’t reach. These nitrogen-fixing and deep-rooting traits make them an ideal companion for shallow rooted crops such as cucumbers that benefit from some shade during the hottest months. Their flowers attract bees; the leaves provide nutritious forage for animals and chickens and mulch that cools soils and retains moisture. They can be used as wind breaks and support for climbing plants.Seed sourcesIt is okay to use pigeon peas from the supermarket but you won’t know the variety and they are sometimes too old to germinate. Alternatively, order seeds from a supplier online or get them from a local gardener. The tall variety may be best for our conditions. Plant them 1 inch deep or in pots and transplant at least 6 to 8 feet apart. They germinate in 15-20 days and flower in 10 to 15 weeks; the pods form shortly after. Pick green pods for green peas or let them dry on the bush for dried peas.NutritionDried pigeon peas are cooked in numerous ways with rice to make a complete protein. They are also eaten green and used the same as green peas. Nutritionally, pigeon peas are not as complete in amino acids as soybeans but what they are short on they more than make up for in their multiple functions.SankofaSankofa is a Ghanaian word that means, “Go back and get it”. Let’s go back and reclaim this part of our ancestral diet. Although there has been a long separation, it is not too late to reconnect with mbaazi or toor and allow it to serve us today as it did our ancestors as food, a bond shared with dispersed kin, and a keystone plant in the garden. Try the popular Kenyan dish below as incentive.Mbaazi za Nazi — (Pigeon Peas in Coconut Sauce)1 cup dried pigeon peas, soaked overnight, and boiled1 13oz. can coconut milk1 medium onion, finely chopped2 cloves garlic, minced1 inch ginger, grated3 chillies, minced¼ tsp. turmeric powder½ cup fresh coriander, finely chopped1 Tbsp vegetable oilsalt to taste1. Heat oil over medium heat and sauté onion until golden brown.2. Add the boiled pigeon peas and coconut milk.3. Add the garlic, ginger chillies, turmeric and salt.3. Cook for 30 minutes. If necessary, add a little water. Stir in the chopped coriander.4. Serve with Mandazi (coconut bread)Recipe from the Nisha-Nishanth-cooking. blogspot