I was recently asked for some advice on pruning ? a favourite topic of mine ? with regard to correct pruning of Oleanders (Nerium oleander). What initiated this request I can only speculate, but certainly it is timely, and perhaps a good time to discuss this particular request and pruning principles in general.

I have often stated that in my opinion pruning is done far too much in Bermuda, in general I believe pruning ? with secateurs, hand saws or loppers ? is required two or at most three times a year.

Flowering plants should be allowed to flower, constant 'hacking' i.e. as soon as a few inches of growth appears, does not help the flowering cycle or indeed in creating a branch structure for replacement pruning in the future. Flower buds are initiated in the leaf axil and are not readily obvious, therefore every time a branch is 'removed' the process of bud initiation starts again and only reaches to fruition when the flowers opens and becomes reality. Constant pruning to the same cut or height creates ' a crew cut effect' with new growth being generated from six to nine inches of the actual cut; very little 'new' growth is generated further down the branch therefore the effect is a 'witches broom', with long branches with a tuft of growth at the end.

Oleanders are a prime example of this type of 'pruning/hacking' when you can literally walk through the thick branch system of the oleander but ten feet up is a thick mass of new growth, totally a redundant exercise. Imagine what unnecessary maintenance cost one incurs when such an exercise takes place, two men doing a job ? one up the ladder, whilst the other one holds the ladder ? when one man can handle the same procedure if done properly.

Oleander growth tends to be 'upright' in habit therefore controlling height (growth) can be attained by pruning to a height that will generate growth from the lower part of the plant. The important point in this procedure is to prune only the older thicker branches, whilst leaving young and newer growth to attain height and just as important mass or density which creates a screen for privacy and protection from wind.

Such pruning can be carried out in March and October with an additional pruning if growth is 'heavy' in August/September. Remove only thick old branches and vary height of cut, from say eighteen inches from ground level to three feet from ground level, thus ensuring a constant supply of new growth from 'low' down which as it grows creates a dense screen.

If plants are really old start by removing about a third of the older branches, and remove same percentage with following two pruning periods. Older plants are often blemished by scale and mealy bug or even aphids, if this is the case remove the heavily infected branches and burn them to stop any re-infestation. Good growth comes with good husbandry, therefore regular fertiliser applications and pest and disease control is essential for healthy growth.

I am amazed to see companies literally skeletonise hedges at any time of the year and recently noted an example of this on the south shore; the hedge was so heavily 'attacked' all that was visible was a forest of branches (no leaves) and the house which the hedge was screening!

Pruning heavily late in the year is questionable, owing to the development of new growth created by the exercise of pruning, and the possibility of strong salt laden winds, which can burn new growth. It is best to leave pruning of hedges until spring when active growth is just around the corner, and is continuous, unlike the winter months when temperature levels are unpredictable. Hand pruning to leaf nodes ? these are found on the stem where the leaf axil is located ? is a good method of reducing or removing unwanted branches whilst controlling to some degree the new growth and its location on the plant; this type of pruning enables a good branch structure to be built up over a period of years and for replacement branch systems to be created. Where branches are to 'thick' for cutting by secateurs the use of loppers or a small hand saw is recommended.

To encourage good branch structure and subsequent shape, prune to an outward facing leaf bud, which will generate the potential branch; collectively this type of pruning creates an open head to the plant allowing more light to all areas and thus developing strong branches.

To ensure development of the 'head' is complete prune out crossing, diseased and dead wood, leaving the new branch system to develop further.

A simple way to control the need for constant pruning, is simply to understand growth association, that is the potential heights of plants and their neighbours, thus avoiding 'overcrowding' and allowing for free growth and corrective pruning of same. The same criteria can be used for hedges; plant hedges ? in a large holes or trench - especially oleander at least four to five feet from your boundary, this will then allow free growth and give a thick screen, without the need to hack back because it is to close to a boundary or wall.

Trees are of course a different animal and should be inspected by a professional tree surgeon to ascertain the health or otherwise of a specimen or mature plant, the small cost is well worth saving a mature tree with what initially be a minor problem, but if left could well be on a down hill spiral. Hack the Knife may be well qualified to discuss the culinary delights of our local restaurants; unfortunately we have many 'Hackers with a Knife' who are barking up the wrong tree!