The heavy rain in early August encouraged much growth, and with it increased leaf cover especially on trees with a canopy.

Such growth is most welcome as it creates a shady area to rest and relax, but cometh the hurricane season and one needs to be aware of the potential problems of heavy growth.

Now is the time to check the garden and develop a programme for thinning out heavy dense growth; such an exercise will reduce the impact of heavy winds from tearing the branch system apart.

Hacking is not pruning, the former only creates a resurgence of heavy dense growth six to nine inches from the cut surface, whereas pruning reduces the 'weight' of the branch system whilst keeping the desired shape.

In reality when pruning is complete the plant should have a similar outline to that of its original shape.

Large trees are especially susceptible to wind damage and require the expertise of a qualified tree surgeon that is not only trained in the science of trees but also of the need for safety both in the tree and on the ground.

Be sure to ask about insurance coverage when hiring a company to do tree work, better to be safe than sorry.

Shrubs be they small or large should also be inspected as to their size and what attention if any they need.

Pruning of course reduces the mass but it will in time encourage new growth especially when the weather stays hot, growth will continue to be active.

Pruning is also a good time to check for pest and disease problems as heavy growth can act as an incubator for many pests; air flow is decreased and a 'humid' atmosphere is created which is also ideal for disease organisms taking hold.

Vines and more especially their support should also be checked to reduce growth and secure the support structure, as over the years wood can deteriorate even more so with the stress of excessive weight and wind.

Removal of top growth is of course only part of the solution, roots are what anchor the plant in the ground; a poor root system will not anchor a tree securely in high winds.

Roots should run deep to create a good foothold in the ground, using the old adage that the top growth of a tree equals its root growth makes sense when you look at a mature Poinciana tree with a thirty foot canopy of foliage.

Ensuring a good root growth is straightforward, the size of planting hole will spell success or failure as the plant ages; trees with potential large heads or canopies require large holes to the point that plants in a 45 gallon container can be planted in a hole six foot square and four feet deep, and this is assuming the surrounding area is soft enough for penetration of root growth as the tree develops.

A similar scenario can be used for hedges or large plants near to walls or foundations. I would suggest that hedges be planted three to four feet in from the boundary, this allows active growth and thus a dense screen being formed on your side of your property, when growth trespasses on your neighbour's property, it is likely to be cut back to the boundary line.

Another important point to remember when planting hedges near a wall or on the edge of a cliff face, if the planting hole is not large enough to allow free growth of the root system, the roots will simply take the easy way out and as they grow put pressure on the wall or soft rock to the point cracking occurs and growth becomes less vigorous from then on in.

Large planting holes will give the plant a good chance to reach maturity without interruption in its growth rate; plants that struggle to survive have little potential to reach maturity.

As plants require water to survive the size of hole also determines available water for the plants use. Such a simple solution to success but on many occasions neglected or not deemed necessary; this is one scenario when digging yourself into a hole does pay dividends!

September is a good month to start preparing the ground for autumn and fall colour; the array of colours and varieties of annuals are endless, coupled with other seasonal plants the array of colour and texture in the garden lends creativity to everyone with an imagination.

Annuals really do make a garden in the 'off' season whether one plants them as a mixed planting between shrubs or as carpet bedding the finished product enhances any garden.

The size of the seedling and how it is planted often dictates whether it will survive or not; small seedling need to be handled with care; it is advisable to hold the seedlings by their lower ? seed ? leaves and not by the stem as bruising can occur with the latter and oft lead to damping off disease or similar.

If growing your own seedlings I would suggest they be grown in three inch pots to a mature size, then planted out and watered in well for several days or until they are standing up on their own.

Bulbous material and alike should start to appear in the nurseries over the next several months, check with your supplier as to what is available and place a firm order; the numerous varieties of bulbous material will blend in well with annuals and give an additional dimension to the garden in the autumn and winter months.