The traffic has increased, and from what he has read in the newspaper, crime too, but award-winning travel writer and editor David Garson still find plenty to like about Bermuda ten years after his last visit.

Mr. Garson was recently in Bermuda for 12 days with his wife Ursula, a travel photographer, gathering material for an article he will write on the Island in an upcoming issue in the International Community Magazine, of which he is an editor.

From his last visit here in 1993, Mr. Garson has noticed an increase in traffic. Crime - including a murder while he was here - is also on the increase, though the Garsons never felt unsafe as they made their way around the Island.

There is still plenty to write favourably about, however, including a memorable tour to Nonsuch Island and a trip to Dockyard, two of which he says stand out.

"The changes are obvious, there is more traffic, more buildings but fortunately no high rises," said Mr. Garson.

"Not that I've experienced it, but from reading your newspaper it would appear there is more crime here, but it doesn't seem to affect tourists and certainly people feel safe, which is important.

"Unfortunately crime is one of the growth industries in the world and, compared to many countries, you aren't doing too badly. The beauty of the Island to me is still very visible and it is still a very beautiful Island, very green, very lush. And, what's very important, the people have courtesy and charm and these are two very important factors from the point of tourists wanting to visit."

The couple made the visit to Bermuda at the urging of former Tourism Minister David Allen, whom they met a few years ago in London.

"We came at his invitation, but we have to thank David Dumont and Joy Sticca (Department of Tourism officials) who made the arrangement in conjunction with CIB, the PR company representing Bermuda in London," explained Mr. Garson who was shocked to hear of Mr. Allen's death a few weeks after his passing.

'We met him a few years ago at one of the travel fairs in London and then the last time we met him was last year. We both have won the Golden Helm award and there was the annual dinner in Berlin and we were with him at this dinner. That was the last time we had contact with him. That was when he invited us to Bermuda.

"We heard of his passing a few weeks after when CIB phoned me to tell me. We had a very high regard for him, we thought he was a very dedicated Minister. Over the years we have had the opportunity to get to know quite a number of Ministers of Tourism and there are a few who stand out as being dedicated.

"If I may say so the late David Allen was one of them, and also a very nice human being...maybe because he was a travel writer!"

Mr. Garson and his German-born wife are based in London and Berlin when assignments don't take them to exciting destinations. They don't disagree that it is an exciting life, combining work with their love of travel - and doing it together.

"Whether I'm staying in Berlin or London, my destinations are the same, but because I'm in Berlin I ask quite a lot to visit certain German destinations," said Mr. Garson.

The monthly magazine he writes for has a circulation of about 100,000 and is published in Berlin in English and by an American. The article on Bermuda won't appear for another three months.

"Bermuda, for me, is an all year-round destination and I think you should promote it (as such)," he urged.

"If you are a golfer, it is a paradise. I think I'm right in saying for your population and size you have more golf courses per capita - eight - than any other country. With golf, the amount of land you need is enormous and therefore is it good practicability of thinking, one assumes, of the tourist side and not think of the indigenous population who might like to see more reasonably priced housing?"

Mr. Garson is well aware of Bermuda's declining tourism figures and thinks the Island should try to do more to tap the European market.

"This was something that we discussed with David and Ursula and I are both of the opinion that Bermuda has not exploited Europe to the full," he stated.

"On the other hand one important factor is people like to be able fly from the city they are living in directly to the destination. At the moment there are no direct flights from Germany."

Said Ursula, also an international Tourism Marketing Specialist and Travel Trade Advisor: "David Allen tried with Condor but Condor pulled out because the market wasn't there.

"I do think you should try again, maybe with the Scandinavian countries, including Finland, and make another effort with Germany because there are a lot of golfers and it is picking up more and more. If not Condor then there are other big charter companies who may be interested.

"They are going to Jamaica from Germany and to Cuba and the Dominican Republic."

Bermuda has plenty of charm that would appeal to Europeans. The Garsons sees Russia as an untapped market.

"Two things, one being British it is nice to still see a little bit of pomp and we saw the Peppercorn Ceremony in St. George's," Mr. Garson stated.

"The fascinating thing, and something that really impressed me, was a visit to Nonsuch Island. That was quite something and we met Dr. David Wingate (former Conservation Officer) who, though he's retired, is working harder than ever.

"The man is such a charming and dedicated fella and it's nice to see how the rest of Bermuda was 50 or so years ago. The virgin beaches (on Nonsuch), the artificial ponds look so natural. We were so impressed. I don't know if it is one of those places where they want people to visit, but not too many, but it is something very, very special."

He added: "The other thing that I have to admit I like is the fact you still have this formality in many of the restaurants. The first hotel we were hosted by was the Horizons and Cottages and for dinner they expected you to wear a jacket and tie and I rather like that."

The Garsons, who left Bermuda at the weekend, ended their stay at the all-inclusive Harmony Club, where Mr. Garson says the "warmth and friendliness take some beating".

"I have to say the Harmony Club isn't one of the most luxurious hotels on the Island, but the gardens were a delight and the atmosphere here is extremely relaxed, they have a very good director in Billy Griffiths and the assistant manager Manfred Seibert.

"The staff here are friendly, it's all-inclusive and I think a lot of people appreciate the comfort and the informality. There are a lot of people that welcome it and I think it is good that if you want to come here you have that opportunity.

"Horizons is also a delightful property and for me it is going to be very easy to write about these specific places. They are so different, but what they both have in common is delightful gardens, but one is much more formal and upmarket than the other. There is no pretence about it."

In the last year alone the couple have been to such places at Italy, Bali, France, Luxembourg, Finland and the Greek island of Crete. And soon after they return they will be travelling again; to Crete in June, then Hungary, Copenhagen and then Kerala, India. He has also been to most of the Caribbean islands, though not lately.

"I've been invited to return to Jamaica," he explained.

"I happen to be a life member in the UK of the Institute for the Study and Treatment of Delinquency and a member of the International Commission of Jurists and in the past I've not only been invited to write about tourism, but also arrangements have been made for me to visit prisons and do reports - not for newspapers - but for the two institutes that I represent," explained the award winning international editor and writer.

"One day I'd be taken around by the tourism office and the next day I'd be waiting for a detective from the police force to show me the areas that are crime-ridden. But I haven't done that for quite a few years and I'm much more involved in the tourism side."