Rugged winter weather has a way of reconfirming the value of simple, well-cooked foods to warm and comfort us. Although the simplicity of a slow-cooked cabbage and lentil stew, potato casserole or hearty salad may belie the true worth of these dishes, in fact they do more than refuel our bodies for the next day's activities. As unpretentious and honest as these rustic foods may be, when well prepared, they can fortify and satisfy us at a core level.

SUCCESS TIPS

To core cabbage, invert the cabbage head and insert a sharp knife at the edge of the core, angling the blade so that the knife tip points toward the center of the cabbage head. Pull the knife around the circumference of the core to free it.

To shred the cabbage, slice the head lengthwise into quarters. Then use a sharp knife, grater or mandoline cutter to slice the cabbage into shreds.

Cabbage, leeks and garlic flavor this nourishing cold-weather "ragout," a French term meaning "to revive the taste." The dish may be made up to two days ahead, refrigerated and reheated on top of the stove or in the oven at moderate heat.

PORK RAGOUT WITH LENTILS AND CABBAGE

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups leeks (white part only), cut in ½-inch lengths

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup dried lentils, picked over, rinsed and drained

1 ½ pounds smoked pork butt, cut in 2 ½-inch cubes

6 cups coarsely shredded green cabbage

2 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon salt

1 ½ teaspoons freshly ground pepper

1 bay leaf

1. In a large, straight-sided skillet over moderate heat, heat butter and olive oil. Add leeks and saute 3 minutes. Add garlic and saute 2 minutes. Add lentils and cook 1 minute. Add pork and saute until browned (about 5 minutes).

2. Add cabbage, broth, wine, salt, pepper and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until lentils are very tender (about 1 ½ hours). Liquid will be mostly absorbed. Serve at once.

Serves 6.

While most American potato salads are served on the side, this one from Lyon, in France's Rhone Valley, is substantial enough to be the main course. Any fresh or cured European-style sausage, including mild Italian link sausages, German bratwurst or Polish kielbasa, will do for this dish.

Precooked or smoked sausages need only be heated through. If the sausage is fresh (not cooked or smoked), poach it until it is thoroughly cooked; cut into one to test it for doneness. The cooking time specified in the following recipe is for fresh 4-ounce sausage links.

WARM POTATO SALAD WITH POACHED SAUSAGE

1 ½ pounds potatoes, small red- or white-skinned potatoes of similar size

¼ cup Dijon-style mustard

6 green onions, minced

Basic Vinaigrette (see recipe below)

? cup minced parsley

½ cup dry white wine

1 ½ pounds fresh or cured sausage

1. In a large saucepan, cover potatoes with salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife (20 to 25 minutes). Drain. When potatoes are just cool enough to handle, slice them about ¼-inch thick and place in a bowl. Add mustard and toss gently to mix. Add green onions and Vinaigrette. Toss gently but well with your hands. Add ¼ cup of the parsley.

2. In a large skillet over high heat, bring wine and 2 cups water to a boil. Add sausages and cover. Reduce heat to maintain a simmer and cook until sausages are firm and hot throughout (about 15 minutes).

3. Transfer potato salad to a warm platter. Surround with poached sausages. Garnish with the remaining parsley. Serve immediately.

Serves 6.

Crisp and pleasantly bitter on the palate, curly endive beautifully complements the richness of Gruyere cheese in this winter salad. Serve the salad with a ragout or roast meat or poultry.

ENDIVE SALAD WITH GRUYERE

5 ounces Gruyere cheese

3 tablespoons minced shallot

Lemon-Chive Vinaigrette (see recipe below)

2 medium heads curly endive

¼ cup minced chives

1. Cut cheese into matchsticks about 2 inches long and ? inch wide. In a medium bowl, combine cheese, shallot and Lemon-Chive Vinaigrette. Marinate 1 hour in the refrigerator.

2. Wash and dry endive. Tear into bite-sized pieces and place in a salad bowl. Add cheese mixture and chives. Toss lightly to mix. Serve immediately.

Serves 6.

Use this traditional French dressing or the lemon-chive variation on cooked vegetables or meats as well as salads. Store any leftover dressing in an airtight jar in the refrigerator; use it within three days.

BASIC VINAIGRETTE

¼ cup red wine vinegar

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

¾ cup olive oil

In a small bowl, combine vinegar, salt and pepper. Whisk in oil; let stand 5 minutes. Whisk again, then taste and, if necessary, adjust seasoning. Makes about 1 cup.

LEMON-CHIVE VINAIGRETTE

Substitute ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice for the wine vinegar. Add freshly grated zest of ½ lemon and 2 tablespoons minced chives.