When it comes to baking, particularly during the holidays, "homey stuff may not always be picture-perfect, but it is absolutely, undeniably beautiful," according to Marcy Goldman, author of "A Passion for Baking" (Oxmoor House, $29.95). If you have that passion, it is "like falling in love with life again and again."

Hers is one of a half-dozen books for infatuated home bakers caught up in their busy season. The others in this arbitrary selection are: "Sky High: Irresistible Triple-Layer Cakes" by Alisa Huntsman and Peter Wynne (Chronicle, $35); "The Greyston Bakery Cookbook" by Sara Kate Gillingham-Ryan (Rodale, $26); "Southern Cakes" by Nancie McDermott (Chronicle, $19.95 paperback); "Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads" by Peter Reinhart (Ten-Speed Press, $35); and "The Complete Baking Cookbook" by George Geary (Rose, $34.95 hardcover; $24.95 paperback).

Four of the books have a single-subject focus, but Goldman and Geary serve up a wide variety of baking products, from buns, biscuits and breads to cakes, cobblers and cookies. Geary tops out at 350 recipes, or 130 more than Goldman, but the latter's presentation is more attractive to the eye. Both, however, are passionate about providing helpful hints and instructions.

Few would deny that Peter Reinhart is the best bread baker — and author — in the business. If you really want to learn how to make bread, get any one of his award-winning books. His attention to detail is extraordinary, leaving no dough unturned for the novice and experienced home baker alike.

Aided by nearly 200 color photographs, Reinhart walks the reader through a great tutorial, including "The Anatomy of a Wheat Kernel" and the 12 stages of bread. (Betcha can't name them!) The primarily European recipes begin with whole-wheat pizza dough or sandwich bread — yes, you can make your own — and continue through such whole-grain delights as Bavarian Pumpernickel, German Hutzelbrot With Dried Fruit and Julekage, a Danish Christmas bread.

Twenty-five years ago, in the New York City suburb of Yonkers, the Zen community opened a small cafe and bakery, the Greyston. The founding is detailed in Gillingham-Ryan's tidy little book with 80 delicious recipes. Few Buddhists remain at the bakery but the work continues, supporting local community development programs. The bakery's desserts are widely known for quality and taste. In fact, the chocolate brownies that go into Ben & Jerry's ice cream are baked by the Greyston.

At the bakery and in the book you'll find such delights as Drunken Grape Tart, Fresh Coconut Mousse Cake, New York Cheesecake (of course) and Pineapple Macadamia Upside-Down Bars. And, how could we forget, The Great Brownie used by the ice cream boys.

Triple-layer cakes are not my forte — two layers are a challenge — but "Sky High" makes it looks simple. This very attractive and colorful volume will have you turning out dramatic cakes for every occasion — or so it is promised. Even for the experienced baker, creating special-occasion cakes such as the Lavender-Rose Wedding Cake or the beribboned Strawberry-Surprise-Package cake would invite disappointment. Tina Rupp's color photographs are delicious, though!

"Southern Cakes" is similar, but without so many layers. McDermott has included some interesting recipes, among them Hummingbird Cake that features "delicious layers moistened by pineapple and bananas, and a yummy cream cheese frosting studded with pecans." Tomato Soup Cake calls for a can of Campbell's condensed tomato soup. Her Japanese Fruitcake has nothing to do with the Japanese, but it does have not one, not two, not three, but four layers — like a pagoda, I imagine.

Each of these cookbooks brings something different to the table, including some interesting challenges as well as traditional baking concepts.

"This is, regardless of which holiday you celebrate, a huge, totally awesome, exceptionally flavorful honey cake," says Marcy Goldman, author of "A Passion for Baking."

THE BIG HONEY CAKE

7 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons ground cinnamon

1 ½ teaspoons ground cloves

1 ½ teaspoons ground allspice

2 tablespoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¾ teaspoon salt

2 cups vegetable oil

1 cup honey

3 cups white sugar

1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon pure orange extract or orange oil

7 large eggs

1 ? cups brewed coffee or tea

1 cup cola

½ cup orange juice

1 cup slivered almonds, optional

Confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line bottom of a 13-by-9-inch pan with parchment paper. Spray paper and inner sides of pan with nonstick cooking spray. Cut out pieces of brown paper (do not use recycled paper) to line the inner sides and make a cake collar for the pan, letting pieces extend 3 to 4 inches above pan. This is a cake "girdle" that will support the cake as it rises high. Spray paper collar with nonstick spray. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place pan on it.

In a very large mixing bowl, hand-blend flour, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Make a well in the center and add, in order, oil, honey, white and brown sugars, extracts, eggs, coffee or tea, cola and orange juice; blend well. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl occasionally to ensure batter is evenly blended.

Pour or spoon batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle with slivered almonds, if desired.

Bake 1 hour and then reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees and bake 45 minutes. Test cake for doneness, and if not quite done, reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees and bake until done, another 10 to 15 minutes or until cake is firm to the touch. Cool completely in pan. Dust with confectioners' sugar.

To serve, cut cake lengthwise down center and then into big slabs.

Makes 24 to 30 servings.