Log In

Reset Password
BERMUDA | RSS PODCAST

Fashion designer with a difference -- that's Lincoln

Different. That's what student fashion designer Mr. Lincoln Raynor aims to be -- not only in his creations, but also his personal appearance.

"Fashion is attitude -- not just an attitude,'' he stated. "The mind is a very powerful organ, and that is where I dwell: in the mind.'' In a society where conformity is the norm, Mr. Raynor has always gone his own way. After all, there aren't too many young men in Bermuda who would admit to designing and sewing their own clothes -- but he's not bothered. Lagerfeld, Versace, Armani, Blass and many more of the world's top designers are also men.

"I thrive on attention -- whether it's negative or positive, I don't care,'' he admitted.

The 20-year-old's interest in fashion began at age 12 when he realised that the look he was after wasn't being met by local clothing outlets. The fact that all his friends seemed to be wearing the same thing also left him unimpressed. So he turned to his mother's sewing machine and began running up shorts and shirts himself.

Self-taught, he began by studying a pair of ready-made shorts to see how they were constructed, and then created his own without a pattern.

"They weren't bad, but I wouldn't wear them today!'' he laughed, recalling the first attempt.

Nonetheless, Mr. Raynor liked the freehand approach so much that even today he prefers working without a pattern.

"I have learned to make patterns in college, which has enabled me to do a lot more work, and more quickly, but for anything really different or unusual I still use a lot of guesswork and `guesstimation' because patterns can get you somewhere but not all the way.'' Make no mistake, however -- Mr. Raynor is no artistic dreamer. He also knows that part of being successful is understanding how to market one's talents.

This is because, after graduating from Warwick Academy in 1990, he studied business administration at the Bermuda College for 18 months -- a move that continues to pay dividends as he pursues his chosen field.

"I use a lot of the business studies in staging my fashion shows and also in designing clothes for my clients,'' he explained. "And I have a tendency not to do things for the family because you can't mix business with pleasure.'' In addition to designing clothes for clients of both sexes, fashion shows are an integral part of Lincoln Raynor's creative life. At the Bermuda College, he always had outfits in the annual fashion show; today he stages his own.

On Sunday, he will present his latest "collection'' under the title, Neo-Platonism.

"Loosely translated, it means inner beauty, and was a belief followed by artists and sculpture during the Renaissance period in Europe,'' the trainee designer explained. "It was believed that beauty was not on the exterior but within the spirit and mind, and that is the message I want to convey in my garments. Although they are simply structured, the garments will all feature abstract and floral linings.'' The concept is something with which he identifies personally.

"When people see me, they have preconceived notions and judge me by the exterior. But what I want people to do is look towards the inside -- what I am projecting through what I say.'' Now enrolled in a two-year associate degree programme at the International Fine Arts College in Miami, Florida, where he maintains a 3.75 grade point average (GPA), Mr. Raynor also knows what it's like to be involved in major shows by internationally-known couturiers.

"I have dressed models in a haute couture show, and this year I worked backstage for Coco Chanel's Spring fashion show in Miami, which was frantic.

You have to make sure everything is together -- the clothes in the right place and unbuttoned ready for the models to step into,'' he explained. "The professional show is only 25-30 minutes long, and there can be as many as 100 garments to be shown in that time. That's why things have to move so quickly.

"At the major shows in Paris and Milan, for example, a designer may design 200 garments for one collection, but on the day will only show 75. That's because of time.'' Although he adheres to the basic principle of conciseness in his fashion shows, Mr. Raynor's presentation is -- like everything else in his life -- distinctly different.

"I prefer shows which are a social event,'' he said. "They should be a casual thing. People shouldn't just go to see the clothes and leave. The purpose of any show is to give potential clients a taste and make them want to see the clothes a second time. You've got to generate interest.'' Though his own style of dress is highly individualistic -- he favours black, white and purple ("black is the foundation, white the contrast, and purple my aura''), a layered look, tinted shades, vests, and offbeat jewellery -- when it comes to his clients, the budding designer can avoid the bizarre.

"My inspiration comes from what I see people around me actually wearing. Some people are wild and others are conservative,'' he said. "I don't consider myself a wild and crazy designer. I can do things which are unique, but I try to keep to what people will actually wear. As long as the design is beautiful when I've finished, I don't mind.'' Unlike many prima donna designers, Mr. Raynor knows that pleasing the customer is the key to financial success, so he believes in working with them to get it right.

"I tell my customers, `If you don't like it, I don't like it'. I wouldn't try to con them into something.'' So far, he has limited his market to the 16 to late-20s age group, but designs for both sexes. After graduation, he feels he will concentrate on menswear and target the 18-30 year-olds. Also, he wants to head for Europe to further his knowledge and skills. Ever the realist, he has no illusions about being tomorrow's Dior, but is certain there's a niche for him somewhere.

"Even if I don't end up a major designer I know I can still obtain work within the fashion industry because there are so many different branches.

There are many more things besides designing and making clothes, and a lot of money to be made,'' he explained.

"As a designer, you need a lot of financial backing and a lot of support because there are so many things to be paid for before a garment is sold -- fabric, labour, advertising, shows.

"You also have to know the ins and outs of the business thoroughly. It's a very tough business, a cut-throat business. Even as a student in the fashion industry you have to watch your back.'' Beyond the fashion world, Mr. Raynor has a keen interest in black and white photography and drama.

"There's so much I want to do, and so little time . . .'' For further information on Sunday's fashion show, telephone 236-4557.

RAYNOR MAGIC -- Models Damon Steede and Niki Sherlock show two of the outfits from Lincoln Raynor's "Inner Beauty'' collection.

MAKING A STATEMENT -- Lincoln Raynor shows the style that sets him apart. The reversible hat, which he designed and made, incorporates two of his favourite colours, purple and black, while the shades have purple lenses. The vest and offbeat jewellery are also wardrobe "musts'' for the student fashion designer.

SNEAK PREVIEW -- Fashion design student Lincoln Raynor (centre) strikes a pose with two of the models who will help launch his latest collection on Sunday.