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Feasts from Florence

Naomi Barry and Beppe Bellini have come up with the next best thing -- a cook book containing 20 superb menus and 150 outstanding recipes from the most celebrated tables in Florence.

Entitled Food alla Florentine, it is available at the Bermuda Library. Here's a sampling: CROSTINI Crostini are a sign of hospitality in Florence. They are tiny rounds of toast, spread with anchovy paste, chicken livers, cooked shellfish, cheese, or any other tidbit that happens to be in the kitchen. These little prologues to a meal are so delectable, you must watch yourself so as not to kill your appetite for what follows! 6 chicken livers 1 lb. beef liver 1 onion, minced 1 cup olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 1 tbsp. sage, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tbsp. chicken broth 1 tbsp. capers 1 anchovy, washed under running water Salt and pepper Slices of Italian or French bread RINSE beef and chicken livers, pat dry, and chop livers and onion. Put in frying pan and and brown quickly in olive oil -- 2 or 3 minutes. Pour in wine and let evaporate. Add chopped sage and minced garlic. Cook 2 minutes more and pass through a food mill. Return to pan with 1 or 2 teaspoons of the chicken broth, capers, minced anchovy, salt, and pepper.

Cut bread into thin slices. Place in oven to toast lightly. Moisten toast by giving them one fast dip into the rest of the broth. Spread with liver paste.

Serves 10.

MINESTRONE ALLA MILANESE In Italy, minestrone essentially is the vegetable garden thrown into a soup pot. There are dozens of recipes and all of them are authentic. Every five miles and you will get another kind of minestrone.

2 lbs. dried white beans 1 cup diced salt pork OR bacon 3 tbsp. butter 2 leeks, chopped (if unobtainable, use 2 yellow onions, chopped) 2 carrots, peeled and chopped 1 head small white cabbage, shredded 1 cup diced celery 1 lb. spinach leaves 2 potatoes, peeled and diced 2 tbsp. basil 2 tbsp. parsley 1 tbsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 8 cups chicken stock 3 cup uncooked rice 2 pork sausages 6 tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese SOAK beans overnight. Cook in salted water for 45 minutes. Drain. Fry pork or bacon lightly in the butter. Stir in leeks, carrots, cabbage, celery, spinach, potatoes, basil, parsley. Season with salt and pepper. After 5 minutes, add tomatoes, beans and stock. Cook slowly for 2 hours. Add rice and sausages.

Continue simmering another 15 minutes, when rice will be done. Then stir in grated Parmesan. Remove sausages, slice and and return to soup. Serve broth and vegetables in a large tureen. Serves 8.

DRUNKEN SHRIMPS WITH TOMATOES Don't be cheap with the Cognac. Unless you use a good quality, you will have short-changed this dish, which would be a very poor economy indeed.

1 cup olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 stalk celery 1 carrot 1 tbsp. parsley 4 leaves sweet basil 4 cups peeled tomatoes 1 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 1 bay leaf 2 lbs. shrimp, shelled Flour 2 eggs 1 lb. butter 2 cups Cognac POUR 1 cup olive oil into a large pan. Saute lightly chopped onion, celery, carrot, parsley, and sweet basil. Add peeled tomatoes, which have been cut in chunks. Season with salt, pepper, and bay leaf. Cook slowly, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Strain through a food mill and set aside. Wash shrimps and dry well, Flour them thoroughly. Dip in beaten egg yolks. Heat butter rapidly. Fry a few at a time in the foaming butter. As soon as the shrimps take on a gold colour, remove, and drain on paper towels. If you need more butter, don't hesitate.

When all are cooked, return to pan. Souse them with Cognac and ignite. Add tomato sauce. Simmer gently for 5 minutes, taking care not to let the shrimps stick to bottom of pan. Serve hot with fluffy, boiled rice. Serves 8-10.

FISH IN GARLIC SAUCE 6 sole 2 bay leaves 1 lemon, sliced White wine 2 eggs 2 cloves garlic 2 slices bread Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon Salt Pepper 1 cup olive oil LAY the sole in a broad, shallow pan with bay leaves and lemon slices. Pour on dry white wine to cover. Simmer gently for 15 minutes. Remove from pan. Skin and bone fish, and lay fillets on a heated platter. (You can simplify your life by poaching the fillets only, but the flavour is more pronounced when you have cooked your fish whole.

Prepare sauce in advance or, if you are very rapid, while the sole is cooking.

Boil eggs and garlic cloves for 7 minutes. (Boiled garlic is less strong, but nonetheless there will be enough garlic taste to subtly perfume the sauce).

Trim crusts off bread and put through a food mill together with hardboiled eggs and garlic. Add lemon juice and zest, salt and pepper. Slowly incorporate the oil, drop by drop, beating well.

Pour sauce over sole fillets, which have been kept warm, and serve as quickly as possible. Serves 6.

VITELLO TONNATO Veal roasted in a casserole or oven is the base of this dish. When cold, cut into thin slices, spread with the following sauce, and let marinate for 1 lb. white tuna, canned in oil 2 anchovy fillets Juice of 1 to 2 lemons Handful of capers, drained 1 cup olive oil POUND together tuna fish and well-washed anchovies. Gradually add olive oil so it amalgamates as if for a mayonnaise. Squeeze in lemon juice. Add drained capers. Sauce will be semi-thick. Pour over sliced meat. Serve in the same dish, 1 or 2 days later, garnished with lemon slices. Serves 8-10.

VEAL CUTLETS MILANESE 6 veal cutlets with bone 6 eggs Bread crumbs Salt and pepper Butter 1 tsp. sage TRIM away all fat and gristle from cutlets. Dip in beaten eggs, which have been seasoned with salt and pepper. Leave meat in eggs for at least 30 minutes, turning from time to time. Coat with bread crumbs, pressing them well into meat with your hands. Toss a generous amount of the best butter into a frying pan. When it begins to foam, add sage and cutlets. Cook over moderate heat, taking care they do not stick to pan. When browned, they are ready to serve. Mashed potatoes and mixed green salad make a perfect trio with the cutlets. Serves 6.

ROAST SPICED PORK 3 lbs. loin of pork, bone left in 4 cups white wine 4 cups white wine vinegar 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 2 tbsp. olive oil 1 tbsp. chopped celery 1 tbsp. chopped carrot 1 tbsp. chopped onion 1 tsp. juniper berries 1 tsp. rosemary 1 tsp. tarragon MAKE a marinade with the wine, vinegar, olive oil, celery, carrot, onion, juniper berries, rosemary, tarragon, salt, and pepper. Soak pork loin in marinade for 48 hours.

Remove and brown well in olive oil using a Dutch oven. Pour all the marinade over the meat. When it comes to a boil, transfer to a slow oven (300 degrees F). Cook, uncovered, for 2 hours, turning the meat every 15 minutes. Serve with the following sauces: Sauce 1 Rind of 1 lemon, grated Juice of 1 lemon Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp. raisins 1 tbsp. pine nuts 1 tsp. cornstarch dissolved in 1 cup hot beef consomme MIX all ingredients together and cook for about 5 minutes. Serve with boiled potatoes.

Sauce 2 2 cups bechamel sauce (recipe follows) 1 cup Cognac 1 cup light cream 1 tsp. pepper FLAME the Cognac. Add to bechamel sauce with 1 cup light cream and pepper.

Heat gently. Serve at once with a side dish of fried apples. Serves 8.

BREAST OF CHICKEN One of this dish's greatest qualities is its adaptability. You can make it in a great kitchen for 400 people or in a studio apartment for an intimate party of 4. When calculating quantities, count on half a chicke 6 whole chicken breasts 2 tbsp. flour 1 tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese 1 tbsp. finely chopped celery 1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary, OR 1 tbsp. dried rosemary 1 tsp. mace 1 tsp. thyme 1 chicken bouillon cube 2 cups light cream DIVIDE chicken breasts. Mix together flour and Parmesan and coat chicken breasts. Arrange in a low, ovenproof casserole and sprinkle generously with a mixture of celery, rosemary, mace, and thyme. Crumble bouillon cube and dust the surface. Cover with cream. Set in a moderate oven (350 degrees F.) and budge from time to time with a wooden spoon to insure even cooking. When ready to serve, chicken breasts should be a golden colour. Succulent and delicious.

Serves 12.

MACARONI TIMBALE Dressed-up pasta makes one of the most festive of party dishes. This pie is ideal for a gala buffet.

Pastry 4 1 cups flour 2 1 cups sugar 1 tsp. salt 1 1 cups butter 3 whole eggs 3 egg yolks 4 tbsp. iced water BLEND together sifted flour, sugar, and salt. Cut in butter. Stir in 3 whole eggs and 3 egg yolks which have been well beaten. Add ice water little by little to obtain a dough of the right consistency. Form into a ball. Wrap in waxed paper and refrigerate for 30 minutes before rolling.

Bechamel Sauce 2 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. flour 2 cups milk 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper WORK flour into soft butter, gradually adding milk until first a paste and then a smooth sauce is formed. Add salt and pepper.

Optional: Scald a sweetbread in boiling water and skin it. Cut in small pieces, lightly saute in butter, add to bechamel sauce, and cook for 5 minutes.

3 lb. elbow macaroni 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese Boiling water 3 cups meat sauce for pasta 1 egg Optional: 1 sweetbread COOK macaroni in plenty of boiling, salted water. When cooked al dente, drain well, rinse under warm running water in a colander and drain again. Mix with meat sauce and grated Parmesan.

Macaroni Timbale Preparation: Line a deep spring-form pan with the pie crust, reserving enough dough for the top. Place a layer of this mixture in pie pan and cover with a layer of bechamel sauce. Repeat sequence until pie pan is filled. Seal with a sheet of rolled pastry. Trim and crimp edges with tines of a fork. Prick the surface and brush with beaten egg. Set in 400 degree F. oven for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees F. and bake 20 minutes more. Remove from oven and let sit cooling for 5-10 minutes. Remove sides of springform pan. Serve timbale on a round platter. Serves 8-10.

ZUCCOTTO A zucca is a pumpkin, a gourd, or a round head. The zuccotto, one of the richest and most famous desserts in Florence, gets its name because of its round melon shape.

Spongecake OR lady fingers Maraschino cherry liqueur 6 cups heavy whipping cream 1 cup sugar 1 tsp. vanilla 1 cup candied fruit 3 oz. semi-sweet chocolate 1 tbsp. Cognac 3 cup mashed strawberries LINE a deep, large bowl or mold with strips of spongecake or lady fingers moistened with maraschino. Whip 2 cups of heavy cream. Sweeten with 1 cup sugar and flavour with vanilla. Fold in 1 cup candied fruit. Spoon mixture into the cake-lined mold. This makes the first layer of filling.

Melt 3 ounces semi-sweet chocolate with 3 cup water in a double boiler. Stir in 1 tsp. Cognac. Cool. Whip 2 cups of heavy cream until stiff. Fold in cold chocolate sauce. Spoon over the candied fruit filling to make a second layer.

Whip another 2 cups heavy cream with 1 cup of sugar until stiff. Fold in 3 cup mashed strawberries. Spoon over chocolate filling to make a third layer.

Freeze dessert until it is firm. To serve, unmold on a chilled platter, and cut into wedges. Serves 8.

PRUNE SOUFFLE 1 lb. prunes, stewed according to pkge. directions 1 cup sugar 4 egg whites 1 tsp. salt 2 tsps. lemon juice 1 1 cups whipped cream PIT prunes and pass through a food mill, but not too fine. Add sugar and cook together until sugar melts. Beat egg whites firm. Add salt and lemon juice and beat again until egg whites stand in peaks. Gently fold in cooled prune mixture and pour into a buttered souffle dish around which you have set a paper collar. Bake in pre-heated, moderate oven for 30 minutes. Remove collar and serve with whipped cream. Serves 4-6.

RASPBERRY CHIFFON PIE 1 10-oz. pkge. frozen raspberries, thawed 1 3-oz. pkge. raspberry-flavoured gelatin 3 cup hot water 2 tbsp. lemon juice 1 cup heavy cream, whipped Dash of salt 2 egg whites 1 cup sugar 1 9-inch baked pastry shell DRAIN raspberries, add water to syrup to make 2 cup. Dissolve gelatin in 3 cup hot water; add lemon juice and raspberry syrup. Chill until partially set.

Beat mixture until soft peaks form. Fold in raspberries and whipped cream. Add salt to egg whites; beat till soft peaks form. Add sugar gradually, beating until stiff. Fold egg whites into raspberry mixture. Pour into cooled, baked pastry shell which has high crimped edges because filling is generous). Chill until set.