female chef appears in the kitchen, they protest: "This is a man's domain.'' Fortunately, there are women who choose to ignore such double standards and practise their culinary art in professional kitchens around the world, including Bermuda.

In keeping with the Heritage Month theme of In Celebration of Women, Taste chatted with two female chefs and a kitchen helper this week about their careers in a traditionally male world.

Pastry chef de partie Dawn McCabe developed her interest in a professional culinary career through domestic science and art classes at school.

Enrolling in the College of Business Studies in Belfast, Northern Ireland to study hotel catering and institutional management seemed a natural next step.

For two years Mrs. McCabe perfected the knowledge that would ultimately take her thousands of miles from her native Ireland to a tiny dot on the world map.

Although in Ireland she had years of experience working in all facets of food preparation, she now prefers to concentrate on what she likes best -- pastries.

Working in the kitchen of the Elbow Beach Hotel means that Mrs. McCabe gets plenty of opportunity to create the mouth-watering goodies so frowned upon by diet gurus.

Like her colleagues, the pastry chef works split shifts. Her duties include preparating items for mis en plas -- stocks of things like pastry, mousses, pound and marble cake -- as well as preparing for buffets, parties, cookies for afternoon teas, and desserts for regular dinner menus.

As one of just two females in the bustling hotel kitchen, Mrs. McCabe was first viewed with apprehension by her male colleagues, but no longer.

"I've been here a long time now and they accept me,'' she said. "On the whole they're pretty polite.'' In fact, the hotel's executive chef, Mr. Norbert Stange, praised her as "one of the best chefs I have ever had''.

Asked what she likes best about her art, Mrs. McCabe says: "The creativity.

When I do a wedding or birthday cake for a friend, or something for competitions, it is a lot of hard work but also fun.'' In fact, she will spend countless hours on the painstaking detail which has led her to win so many prizes at exhibitions -- and always at home.

"It's impossible to create these things in a busy hotel kitchen. You need peace and quiet,'' she explained.

And also a helpful partner, which her husband is.

"It is very hard to buy the things that I need here, so if I want a special shaped cutter my husband makes it for me out of brass,'' she said. "He's a great help and very supportive.'' Other items not available here are sent to Mrs. McCabe by her father-in-law, who is a baker.

Inspiration for unique designs comes from studying publications, and then imbuing them with her own creativity.

"I think a lot, and for a long time, about what I am going to do,'' the pastry chef explained. "Usually I look at books, pick out what I like and then think, `What can I do to make it interesting?' The judges always like fine detail.'' So much so, in fact, that she's won five gold and three silver medals for her intricate work.

Normally one to submit wedding cakes for the Agricultural Exhibition, Mrs.

McCabe thought she'd have a change this year and entered a miniature and petit fours instead. Although she again won medals, she was amazed and disappointed to find that no-one had entered a wedding cake.

Describing her original intention to visit Bermuda "as an adventure for three years,'' Mrs. McCabe noted that she and her husband were now in their eighth year here.

"He likes the climate,'' she smiled.

Although still happy in Bermuda, her ultimate desire is to return home to Ireland and become her own boss.

"I am going to open my own wedding and special occasion cakes business with all the fine detail and the sugar flowers, extension work and lace. That is what I enjoy.'' she said. "Then, I will be an employer and work 9 to 5 Monday to Friday.'' Asked what she would tell another woman considering entering the profession, Mrs. McCabe responded: "It is very hard but rewarding work, and the creative side is also rewarding.

"If you are a woman it is more difficult because you have to keep proving yourself, otherwise the guys keep pushing you to the side. That's why you have to keep entering shows and winning medals. I do not know if I would recommend it to somebody because you have got to be very strong.'' Nevertheless, she was certain women had a positive influence men in the kitchen.

"Every kitchen should have women in it because the men do watch themselves a lot more.'' And if they didn't? "There's always Mrs. Smith (see separate story this page).

She smacks them on the head if they don't behave,'' Mrs. McCabe joked.

Photos by Tamell Simons DON'T MESS WITH US! As the only women in the kitchen of one of Bermuda's major hotels, Mrs. Dawn McCabe (left) and Mrs. Florence Smith have no trouble holding their own in a male-dominated profession. In fact, their presence has a positive effect on male behaviour.

SUCCESS ON A PLATE -- Dawn McCabe with her mouth-watering creations.