it was the diversity of taste combinations that made Portuguese cooking so special.

"From north to south, the kitchens of Portugal share a wide variety of ingredients,'' he said. "Fresh herbs like coriander as well as preserved foods like salt-dried cod are often found.

"Fresh lemons juice is squeezed on meat, which is also cooked with sweet rich port or Madeira.'' Here are a few Portuguese recipes to help you discover the "special'' flavour of Portugal.

CALDO VERDE POTATO AND KALE SOUP WITH SAUSAGE 1/2 pound fresh kale or collard greens 4 ounces linguica or substitute 4 ounces of chorizo or any other garlic-seasoned smoked pork sausage 3 medium-sized potatoes (about 1 pound), peeled and sliced into 1/4 inch-thick rounds 6 cups water 2 teaspoons salt 1/2 cup olive oil 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper WASH the greens under cold running water. With a sharp knife trim away any bruised or blemished spots and strip the leaves from their stems. Bunch the leaves together and shred them into the finest possible strips. Set aside.

Place the sausages in a small skillet and prick them in two or three places with the point of a knife. Add enough water to cover them and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Drain the sausages on paper towels, slice into 1/4-inch rounds, and set aside.

Combine the potatoes, water and salt in a 4-to-5-quart saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderate and cook uncovered for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes when tested can be easily mashed against the sides of the pan.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to a bowl and mash them to a smooth puree with a fork. Return the potatoes to the liquid in the pan, stir in the olive oil and pepper and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add the greens and boil uncovered for 3 or 4 minutes. Then drop in the reserved sausages and simmer for a minute or two to heat them through. Serve at once.

BATATAS A' PORTUGUESA PORTUGUESE FRIED POTATOES 3 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 1/2 pounds new potatoes, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds 1/2 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 tbl spoon chopped parsley IN a heavy 10-to-12-inch skillet, melt the butter in the olive oil over moderate heat. When the foam begins to subside, add the potatoes. Turning them frequently with a metal spatula, cook for 15 minutes or until they are tender and golden brown.

Season with salt and a few grindings of pepper, then transfer the potatoes to a heated bowl or platter and serve at once, sprinkled with parsley if you like.

UMA SALADA PORTUGUESA MIXED GREEN SALAD 1/2 cup olive oil 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice Salt, preferably coarse salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 head Boston, bibb, or romaine lettuce plus 2 or 3 chicory leaves, cut into small pieces 1 bunch water cress 1 large tomato, thinly sliced 1 large red onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings 8 ripe olives (optional) BEAT the oil and lemon juice together with a fork or whisk until thy are well blended. Season liberally with salt and a few grindings of pepper.

Toss lettuce and water cress together with the dressing. Place the tomato slices overlapping on top and arrange the onion rings (and olives if you are Portugese taste sensations ROJOES COMINO BRAISED PORK WITH CUMIN, CORIANDER AND LEMON 2 pounds lean boneless pork, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 tablespoon lard 3/4 cup dry white wine 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin seed 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper 5 thin lemon slices, quartered 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander (cilantro) PAT the pork cubes thoroughly dry with paper towels. In a heavy 10-to-12-inch skillet, melt the lard over high heat until it splutters.

Add the pork cubes and brown them turning the cubes frequently with a large spoon and regulating the heat so that they colour quickly and evenly without burning.

Stir in 1/2 cup of wine, the cumin, garlic, salt and a liberal grinding of pepper.

Bring to a boil, then cover the skillet, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 25 minutes, or until the pork is tender and shows no resistance when pierced with the tip of a small, sharp knife.

Add the remaining 1/4 cup of wine and the lemon slices and cook over high heat, turning the meat and lemon pieces constantly, until the sauce thickens ever so slightly. Stir in the coriander and taste for seasoning., Pour the pork mixture onto the centre of a large heated platter and surround it if you like with Portuguese fried potatoes (see above recipe).

MASSA SOVADA PORTUGUESE SWEET BREAD To make two 9-inch round loaves 2 packages or cakes of active dry or compressed yeast A pinch plus 1 cup sugar 1/4 cup lukewarm water (110 degrees to 115 degrees) 5 to 6 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup lukewarm milk (110 degrees to 115 degrees) 3 eggs 1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small bits 2 tablespoons softened butter 1 egg, lightly beaten IN a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast and a pinch of sugar over the lukewarm water. Let the mixture stand for 2 or 3 minutes, then stir to dissolve the yeast completely. Set the bowl in a warm, draft-free pace, such as an unlighted oven, for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture doubles in volume.

In a deep mixing bowl, combine the 1 cup of sugar, 4 cups of the flour and the salt. Make a well in the centre, pour in the yeast and milk, and drop in the eggs. Gently stir together with a large spoon, then beat vigorously until all the ingredients are well combined.

Beat in 1/4 pound of butter then add up to 2 cups more flour, beating it in 1/4 cup at a time, and using as much as necessary to form a dough that can be gathered into a soft ball. If the dough becomes difficult to stir, work in the flour with your fingers.

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface, and knead it, pressing down and pushing it forward several times with the heel of your hand. Fold it back on itself and repeat for about 15 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.

Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a large, lightly buttered bowl.

Dust the top with flour, drape with a towel and set aside in the warm, draft-free place for 45 minutes to an hour until the dough doubles in bulk.

With a pastry brush, coat the bottom and sides of two 9-inch pie plates with 2 tablespoons of softened butter. Punch the dough down with a single blow of your fist, then transfer it to a lightly floured surface and let it rest for 10 minutes. Divide the dough in two and pat the halves into flattened round loaves about 9 inches across. Place them in the pie plates and let them rise in a warm place for about 40 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. With a pastry brush, coat the top of both loaves with beaten egg. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 1 hours or until the loaves are golden brown and crusty. Cool on cake racks.

PORTO PUNDIM FLAN PORTUGUESE BAKED CARAMEL CUSTARD 1 1/2 cups heavy cream 1 1/2 cups milk 3/4 cup sugar 6 egg yolks 2 teaspoons port PREHEAT the oven to 350 degrees. In a heavy 1-to-1 1/2-quart saucepan warm the cream and milk over high heat until small bubbles appear around the edge of the pan. Set aside off the heat.

In a small heavy saucepan or skillet, caramelise the sugar by stirring it over moderate heat, until it melts and turns a light golden brown. Immediately pour the hot cream and milk in a thin stream into the caramel, stirring constantly with a large spoon. Continue to stir until the caramel has thoroughly dissolved.

With a whisk, or a rotary or electric beater, beat the egg yolks until they are well blended. Then slowly pour in the cream mixture, stirring constantly with a spoon. Stir in the port and strain the mixture through a fine sieve into 12 4-ounce heat proof porcelain or glass individual molds or custard cups.

Set the molds in a large roasting pan on the middle shelf of the oven and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the molds. Bake for 40 minutes or until a knife inserted in the centre of the custard comes out clean. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 3 hours or until a thoroughly chilled.

To unmold the custard, run a sharp knife around the inside edge of each mold and dip the bottom briefly in hot water. Then wipe the mold dry, place a chilled serving plate upside down over each mold and, grasping mold and plate firmly together, quickly invert them. Rap the plate on a table and the custard should slide out easily. In Portugal, the custard is sometimes garnished with a flower blossom.

From: The Cooking of Spain and Portugal