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The rich history of Flatts Village

The picturesque area known as Flatts Village was established almost as soon as Bermuda was settled. Sir George Somers' famous chart of 1610 shows a small house situated by the Flatts inlet, and very soon after, one of the Island's first bridges was erected at the site of today's bridge, where people still gather to watch the spectacular rush of water escaping from Harrington Sound through the narrow inlet and out into the Atlantic Ocean.

The history of the Flatts area has been as rich and colourful as the village port itself where (with one or two exceptions) the Island's unique architecture has been well preserved. It is believed that the name `Flatts' may derive from an archaic English word meaning a frame used for drying fish.

One of Flatts' less happy landmarks is nearby Gibbits Island -- a scenic and serene sight today, but less so in the early 1600's when it was chosen as the site for hangings and even worse, perhaps, where witches were burned at the stake. Flatts Bridge was also, apparently, used as a suitably public place for the rather drastic punishment reserved for petty criminals: a person using bad language was placed on the bridge where his tongue was bored through with a hot iron.

The `glory years' occurred in the 1700's when the little village evolved into a busy port, second only to St. George's in importance. Because of its relatively isolated location, it also became a popular place for smuggling, with many a load stealthily slipped off incoming ships before they made their `official' presentations to waiting Customs officers as they sailed into the East End.

In the early 19th century, Flatts was even able to provide an audience for a play that was performed at the so-called Union Theatre, in the house known as `Wistowe'.

As fate would have it, however, two factors would emerge in the 19th century that would condemn Flatts to become a backwater -- albeit a very beautiful one. The advent of larger, modern ships meant that the inlet became too small and a steady silting-up of sand at the mouth of the inlet added to the difficulties of almost all ships attempting to enter the port.

By the dawn of the 20th century, there was little activity at Flatts. True, the attractive Frascati Hotel (site of the present day St. James Court) had become a popular tourist mecca. In 1926, however, an event occurred that would not just put Flatts back on the Bermuda map but would, eventually, bring the little village international recognition: this was the decision by the Bermuda government to build its Aquarium on a site just beyond the historic bridge.

Opening in 1926 under the curatorship of Louis Mowbray, Bermuda's Aquarium, Museum and Zoo (BAMZ) has become Bermuda's premier tourist attraction, with an estimated 100,000 visitors each year. As an institution that is heavily involved with overseas partners in various conservation projects, BAMZ is well respected: two weeks ago, it was announced that the American Zoo and Aquarium Association had awarded its first prize to the Aquarium's North Rock exhibit.

Just five years after the opening of the Aquarium, the arrival of the Bermuda Railway suddenly made Flatts more accessible. With a station on either side, the train made a dramatic traverse over the mouth of the inlet by means of a trestle that soared over the sea. Sadly, Bermuda's railway was disbanded in 1946 -- to make way for the motor vehicles which, some 50 years later have effectively choked the once peaceful village. The concrete foundations of the old trestle can still be seen, looking like giant stepping-stones across the water. The other station was named for the Aquarium and now houses the Bermuda Railway Museum.

Carveth Wells, in his book `Bermuda in Three Colours' has left a vivid impression of Flatts at that time: "As the train passes over the Flatts bridge, look to your right and you will see the quaint little Flatts Village and the Coral Island Club (Frascati). In this village is a mahogany tree, the only one in Bermuda, but famous for being counted so often by Mark Twain.

"One of the most remarkable sights at Flatts Village is the amazing colour of the sea water, which is generally bright pale green and clear as crystal....

If you find yourself staying at the Coral Island Club, be sure and visit the rectory at the Flatts Village and notice the inscription over the front door which reads: `Through this wide opening gate, none comes too early, none returns too late'....Within ten minutes' drive of Flatts Station is one of Bermuda's most celebrated sights, `The Devil's Hole', a paradise for both fishermen and fish, because the former never fail to haul up several enormous fish and the latter always get the bait without being caught'.'' As for the Aquarium, Wells described it, even then, as "easily'' the best show on the island: "Not only having one of the finest collections of tropical fish in the world but also a collection of sea lizards, turtles and penguins brought to Bermuda from the Galapagos Islands by Bermuda's indigenous explorer, Mr. L. Mowbray.'' Now, thanks to the hard work of the Flatts Development Committee and BAMZ's willingness to host the event, the rest of Bermuda will be able to celebrate the tiny village's heritage -- and support its future.

GONE FISHIN' -- A group of Bermudians, pictured on a classic cedar fishing boat enjoy the tranquil surroundings of Flatts Inlet. It is believed this photograph dates from the early 1950's.