professional in England? Phil Ascough samples life in Scarborough with international striker Kyle Lightbourne.

To many, the Yorkshire town of Scarborough is merely another uninspiring holiday refuge for hundreds of thousands of working class, predominantly northern folk.

But there is rather more to Bermudian soccer player Kyle Lightbourne's new home than smutty postcards and kiss-me-quick headgear, warm beer and cold days huddled on crowded beaches. Parts of the town have a certain charm. Style, even. And so, at last, has the local football team.

Scarborough F.C., long time kings of the semi-professional scene, wasted no time in bullying the bigger professional boys when they finally gained Football League status in 1987, the first team to grab the opportunity of automatic promotion from the non-League Vauxhall Conference. They built a reputation as a rough and tumble outfit, favouring the long ball to break down successive, shellshocked defences. And their style was so successful they lost more than one manager to bigger clubs.

But times - and managers - have changed. The McCain Stadium may be named after a manufacturer of frozen foods but the fare on the field is altogether more appetising. As a player, manager Ray McHale covered every league ground and all four divisions in scoring more than 100 goals from 650 appearances. And as a midfielder he is not about to abandon his former hunting ground by encouraging his current charges to hoof the ball right over it.

At the same time, there can be no doubting the commitment to attack which helped create an opening for Lightbourne alongside rising stars Darren Foreman - the Third Division's top scorer - and Tommy Mooney, who is not far behind in the standings. McHale will only be surprised if he is not invited to deprive some big league moneybags of a few hundred thousand pounds for the services of either player. When such an offer is made the individual concerned will be allowed to leave and the manager will hope some of the proceeds find their way into his annual budget.

Match day at the McCain Stadium provides further evidence of how economics dictate that if Lightbourne is good enough he will get his chance of a move to the big time. The game itself is sponsored. So is the ball. The sponsored programme carries details of the club's three main sponsors and the players' individual sponsors. Lightbourne was not listed for the Hereford match but it should be only a matter of time before page ten - an appeal for more sponsors - bears fruit.

Times are even harder for Hereford, who find themselves dangerously close to the trap door which leads to the Vauxhall Conference. Unable even to meet the costs of running a reserve side, the club is looking to cut back wherever possible. Most at risk are Bermudians Meshach Wade and Kentoine Jennings, overseas players who could be considered luxuries if Hereford are forced to go part-time. Like Lightbourne and fellow striker Shawn Goater at Rotherham, the Hereford pair struggled to adapt once again to the pace of the English game on their return from World Cup duty with Bermuda. Unlike the strikers they weren't getting time on the field. A good showing against Scarborough was essential.

Wade and Jennings had to watch from the bench as Lightbourne waltzed round their colleagues, cashing in on a mistake by player-manager Greg Downs to open the scoring in the third minute. But after an hour, Jennings came on and played well at right back. History was made when he was joined by Wade for the last 15 minutes - three Bermudians playing in the same English league game for the first time. Unfortunately, it wasn't enough to keep them at the club and the pair were released from their contracts in early March.

Some 24 hours earlier, when light training was followed by a late lunch, Lightbourne promoted the talents of his countrymen and McHale was clearly interested. Time will tell whether he was sufficiently impressed with what littlehe saw of Wade and Jennings, and whether he is able to visit the Island for a closer look at the best of the rest.

"With Kyle living so far away we gave him a six-month contract,'' says McHale, adding that he also tried to buy Goater but was pipped by Rotherham.

"If he had been a local lad we would have kept him month to month. But he's progressed and fitted in so we've extended his contract and he's no longer under pressure.

"If he can get ten goals this season I think we will definitely get promotion. We have as good a chance as anybody, it's a case of stringing some consistency together.'' Twenty-four-year-old Kyle, who had trials with Northampton Town last year before catching Scarborough's eye, could not be happier. With his girlfriend Rosemarie Darrell he has settled into a typical holiday hotel overlooking Scarborough's north beach and with unobstructed views of the castle. He hopes to find an apartment in time for next season.

Remarkably, while so many travel from South Yorkshire to Scarborough for their weekend breaks, Kyle heads the other way: "I go to Rotherham every now and then to see Shawn. If we are playing away I get off the bus on the way back and meet him. I keep in touch with the guys in Hereford by phone.'' Rosemarie's company - she's studying at a local college - has helped Kyle settle into a town which offers few distractions for the professional sportsman. All the players get along well, but most live too far away for frequent socialising. In winter, movies, TV and rest are the best bets for relaxation.

"It's a lot more laid back. In Bermuda I never really felt like playing a night game after a day at work but the difference here is that you definitely get enough rest. Every time I go onto the pitch I really feel like playing.'' Back in Bermuda, the long-limbed, six-footer worked full-time as a truck driver but still managed to finish as the Island's top scorer in 1991-92 with 33 goals for the PHC Zebras as they captured the league and FA Cup double and headed home a memorable winning goal in Bermuda's World Cup win over El Salvador last year. "Even the extra training does not take much out of my body,'' continues Lightbourne, a natural all-round sportsman who has also represented Bermuda at cricket as a dangerous left-arm fast bowler. "A lot of people say professionals have a hard life but I think it is more difficult at the amateur level where you do a day's work but people still expect you to play well.

"The game here is a lot faster. The ball comes forward more quickly, especially with the new back pass rule. I have to chase up on the keeper and then chase back to avoid being caught offside.'' Without doubt the newcomer has benefited from his friendship with Goater. And the advice he receives from McHale is identical to that handed out at Rotherham a couple of years ago. "He's getting into scoring positions but he needs to be meaner and more ruthless,'' says McHale, echoing his call from an earlier training session. The players were working on set pieces and Lightbourne moved in to challenge as the keeper rose to claim a corner. "When that happens in a game you go in and clatter him,'' bawled the manager.

The location and routines change to help keep the players interested, but training the day before a match is always light and plenty of rest a priority.

During the more rigorous pre-season programme, managers have been known to make the players run up the Cliver's Mount circuit, a twisting, climbing route used for motorcycle races and by tourists who, from the top, enjoy a view of the whole town and, quite possibly, half the county.

Today they drive up and are led through a series of stretching exercises while McHale runs through his observations on the opposition. Apparently the Hereford keeper is vulnerable to back passes; Kyle is in for a busy afternoon.

After a few laps of the field the first choice and reserve keepers are put through their paces, taking turns to stand in the centre of a circle of players firing in shots from all angles.

The practice match is only eight-a-side but fiercely competitive between two teams selected at the start of the season and battling for their own internal championship. The three-touch rule ensures more running off the ball than with it, improving vision and ball skills. McHale, at 42, still plays an active part. Lightbourne, wearing 32, has his moments but is tightly marked for most of thegame - nothing to do with the need to keep him quiet, just publicity-seeking colleagues anxious not to miss out on a photo opportunity.

McHale encourages his players to hit him with physical and verbal challenges.

They are not afraid to shout what they think but there is a clear and deep respect for the man who ended his playing career at Scarborough and who has since introduced almost 30 young men to league football. Probably his only regret arises from the great day when Scarborough made their league debut. His volleyed equaliser in a 2-2 draw with the once mighty Wolves was overshadowed by the antics of a visiting supporter who, in full view of the nation's TV cameras, crashed through the roof of a stand and was fortunate to survive the fall.

As a manager, McHale appreciates that in spite of the old cliche, the game is not only about goals. "It is important to get the right result on a Saturday but you also want the club to be here in 10 years time,'' he says.

The World Cup remains the highlight of Kyle's career so far, closely followed by Scarborough's Coca-Cola Cup match against Arsenal. A nationwide TV audience saw the young Bermudian, wearing gloves for protection against the bitter Yorkshire winter, give his all against the side which began the season as favourites to win the Premier League title.

It is a myth that poor pitches discriminate only against the top sides. The McCain Stadium surface in January brought back memories for Lightbourne - but only of PHC's car park. It did nothing to improve his side's chances and they lost a close, scrappy game to a superb strike by Nigel Winterburn.

But victories over Coventry, Bradford and Plymouth give some idea of Scarborough's potential, and a stunning deal offered by the board of directors ensures the players have more incentive than most. If the side fails to finish in the top seven, thereby gaining automatic promotion or a place in the play-offs with the prospect of a Wembley final, all current season ticket holders will be offered a free pass for next season.

"That could cost us about 50,000 ($72,500),'' says a worried McHale.

"Support is a problem because we are only getting 1,500 to 1,800 and of the total population, around 70,000, many are retired here and still support their home teams like Barnsley and Doncaster.'' So for the time being at least Scarborough will chase promotion on a shoe string. They still travel in private cars to games which are less than two hours drive from home. The club minibus, emblazoned with the team's name in red and white, also comes in handy - as long as it starts. For the Friday training session McHale looks on as the players warm up by giving the bus a push to get it going. As the engine roars into life so does McHale: "Bet they don't do this in the Premier League!'' Phil Ascough is a former reporter with The Royal Gazette. He now works in Leeds, England as a researcher for BBC TV.

SCARBOROUGH SCENES Oppositite page: Top, it's not Horseshoe Bay but Kyle Lightbourne can still get in a beach workwout on South Bay seafront. Below left, Kyle has the world -- well, Scarborough -- at his feet. Below right, taking a tip from Scarborough mangaer Ray McHale.

This Page: Top, Kyle take in the Scarborough sights. Below, at work during a first team training session.