'Dean of American cookery' changed the way we eat
In 1954 the New York Times dubbed James Beard "dean of American cookery", as he laid the groundwork for a food revolution that put America near the forefront of global gastronomy.
He was a pioneer foodie – host of the first food programme on the fledgling medium of television in 1946, the first to suspect that classic American culinary traditions might cohere into a national cuisine, and an early champion of local products and markets.
He nurtured a generation of American chefs and cookbook authors who have changed the way Americans eat.
James Andrew Beard was born on May 5, 1903 in Portland, Oregon. His mother, an independent English woman passionate about food, ran a boarding house. His father worked at Portland's Customs House. The family spent summers at the beach at Gearhart, Oregon, fishing, gathering shellfish and wild berries, and cooking meals with whatever was caught.
After a brief stint at Reed College in Portland, in 1923 Mr. Beard went on the road with a theatrical troupe. He lived abroad for several years studying voice and theatre, but returned to the US for good in 1927.
Although he kept trying to break into the theatre and movies, by 1935 he needed to supplement what was a non-lucrative career and began a catering business. With the opening of a small food shop called Hors d'Oeuvre, Inc., in 1937, Mr. Beard finally realised that his future lay in the world of food and cooking.
In 1940, he penned what was then the first major cookbook devoted exclusively to cocktail food, 'Hors d'Oeuvre & Canapés'. In 1942 he followed it up with 'Cook It Outdoors', the first serious work on outdoor cooking. He spent the war years with a brief stint in cryptography, but he primarily served with the United Seamen's Service, setting up sailors' canteens in Puerto Rico, Rio de Janeiro, Marseilles and Panama.
When he returned to New York in 1945, he became totally immersed in the culinary community.
Between 1945 and 1955 he wrote several seminal cookbooks. He appeared in his own segment on television's first cooking show on NBC in 1946, and then on many other spots on television and radio. He contributed articles and columns to 'Woman's Day', 'Gourmet', and 'House & Garden', served as a consultant to many restaurateurs and food producers, and ran his own restaurant on Nantucket. He became the focal point of the entire American food world.
In 1955, Mr. Beard established the James Beard Cooking School. He continued to teach cooking to men and women for the next 30 years, both at his own schools, in New York City and Seaside, Oregon, and around the country at women's clubs, other cooking schools, and civic groups. He was a tireless traveller, bringing his message of good food, honestly prepared with fresh, wholesome, American ingredients, to a country just becoming aware of its own culinary heritage.
He also continued to write cookbooks, most of which became classics and many of which are still in print.
When he died at the age of 81 on January 21, 1985, he left a legacy of culinary excellence and integrity to generations of home cooks and professional chefs. His name remains synonymous with American food.