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High fashion comes to Kingston

Jump, jump, jump to it: A dancer livens up the narrow runway for a presentation of wild and funky fashions by Bouic, a Barbadian label, during Caribbean Fashion Week.

Fashion writers and photographers from around the world, representing such publications as The New York Times, Paper Magazine, Fashion TV, Vibe & Vixen magazine and The Royal Gazette, recently flocked to Caribbean Fashion Week (CFW) in Kingston, Jamaica. Dubbed by organisers as "the coolest fashion week in the world", and hailed by British Vogue as "an important new trend in world fashion", CFW is also an eagerly anticipated feature on Paris' Fashion TV.

Held in the Caribbean island's national indoor stadium, the venue was divided into two separate areas, one featuring a trade show, and the other the fashion showcase. State of the art lighting and matte blackboards provided a dramatic backdrop to the stark white catwalk on which the models strutted their stuff, and around which sat a capacity audience of international fashion VIPs, celebrities and the requisite political movers and shakers from Jamaica and the Afro-Caribbean diaspora.

Despite inordinate delays — opening night began almost three hours late, and the final show on the third day began after 1.15 a.m. — the Caribbean's top supermodels rocked the runway.

The international and local models were the requisite 110-pound assemblage of cheekbones, clavicles and elbows that could slice meat, and they were stunning. Cover girls seen in International Vogue editorials, Victoria's Secret campaigns, and stand-out characters from Tyra Banks' 'America's Next Top Model' television show, were flown in from the world's fashion capitals, while others were plucked from Jamaica and elsewhere in the Caribbean.

The event was produced by Pulse Investments, the Caribbean's premier modelling agency, and developer of the television series, 'Caribbean Model Search' (CMS) — a regional adaptation of 'America's Next Top Model'.

Male model Oraine Barrett, winner of a recent CMS series, has since launched his international career with a 20-page spread in Italian Vogue, while CMS contestant Shevolee wowed the auditorium with her 'attitude' walk. Bald, chocolate brown, with delicate features and a slim, yet womanly, frame, she stole the show. No matter what the designers draped on her, she owned her space on the catwalk, and outshone even veterans and European fashion sweethearts Jaunel McKenzie and Nell Robinson.

Carla Campbell, a Sports Illustrated starlet, stayed true to her pin-up image, seducing the crowd with her pouty looks, come-hither eye flutter and busty bounce. Nadine Willis, a month into motherhood, shamed the rest of womankind by looking better on the catwalk than most would dare to look even pre-pregnancy. Her affable personality and fun-loving energy rippled across the audience and she garnered raves from the hometown crowd as well as the international set who remember her pioneering position as the first black model to be selected as the face of Gucci.

Designer Standouts Barbados, Bermuda, Britain and Beyond!

With shows from 50 designers from 15 countries spread over three days, not to mention the press events and parties, it was a difficult task choosing the most dramatic standouts from the spread of designs, but here is a sampling.

Romero Bryan, a black British designer who clothes are worn by Kate Moss and Caribbean pop star Rihanna, showed edgy, cosmopolitan looks with racy urban undertones.

Bouic, a wild and funky Barbadian label, delivered a high energy, visually exciting show. The models strutted to the bass-driven sounds of 'Click Mi Finger' by reggae dancehall newcomer Erup, with the energy level ramped up by a duo of dancers frenetically showcasing moves from the reggae world's hottest dancehalls. This label was fierce, sexy and party girl-friendly.

Zadd & Eastman of Trinidad laid waste the claim that Barbados and its creative were the only big guns in the region. Their couture collection oozed feminine appeal, with sensual silhouettes, frothy petticoats under white ruffled skirts, and a happy palette with precision detailing dominating. Impeccable construction cemented the label's position as a leading house in Caribbean fashion.

Gavin Douglas, a Birming Gavin Douglas, a Birmingham-born British designer, absolutely floored the CFW audiences with his impeccably constructed, avant-garde designs for 2008. A fashion upstart who arrived on the scene in 2005 with a collection that earned him the Smirnoff CFW Originators award, his return to the Pulse Group's 2008 production did not disappoint. With designs in the softest of pinks sewn in the finest of silks, he managed to address an uber-feminine aesthete and match it with dominatrix-like appeal. Without the attendant Madonna pop star cliché, his collection incorporated bra straps and closures and various lingerie elements throughout much of the evening wear. Ruching, ruffles and sky-high stilettos signalled unadulterated sex appeal, while the matte felt shell of a side-cocked cap, contrasted with patent or butter soft leather, duck-billed brims and metallic accents, introduced a hint of S&M chic. Wearing Gavin Douglas is not for the faint-hearted, but he counts Mary J Blige and Kelly Rowland among his A-list clientele.

Rasta couture was in full effect with a top-ranked presentation of Brooklyn-based label, Rebel, by Bermuda's own Mujahji Tokunbo. An alumni of the former Warwick Secondary School, she credits its home economics programme with developing the technical foundation of her career as a designer and dressmaker. Ms Tonkunbo has adopted an Afrocentric, Rastafari way of life, and it informs her vision on her Rebel label. The collection incorporated vintage denim with Ethiopian fabrics and West African prints with linens and lace. There were ubiquitous flashes of red, gold and green.

The women's wear collection, with its ankle-grazing skirts and head coverings, reflected the modesty which is celebrated by Rastafari. Rebel showed ruffles, puff sleeves, halter dresses and a strong, sensual silhouette.

Rebel Menswear showcased a cool, comfortable profile, hand-crafted leather accessories with Afrocentric motifs and a T-shirt line with strong Afrocentric political statements.

The models, inspired by the clothing and not on the instructions of the designer, raised clenched fists in black power salutes, while others demonstrated the peaceful, prayerful Rastafarian posture and hand clasp. A pleased, but notably attention-shy, Mujahji was led onto the catwalk by her favourite model, Jamaica's Rochelle Notice, to be showered with applause and hoots of approval. Bermuda should be proud.

The Barbados Fashion Machine

The presentation of the Ashakai swimwear collection, by Barbadian designer Catherine Balgobin, virtually dominated all press coverage in the Jamaica daily with images of the scantily clad models. True, skin will almost always win but, in this case, style, fabric and innovation trumped the 'booty' factor. Ms Balgobin explained that her 2008 collection "was an eco-cultural treasure trove of Barbados matter and spirit". Her swimsuits incorporated authentic accents of Barbados: earth and plants, as well as elements of cultural heritage, with textiles crafted in traditional rag matting techniques. The collection comprised three distinct moods held together by her consistently Barbadian eco-cultural approach to design.

Her signature avant garde swimwear, crafted of supple leathers in strong, earth colours, dramatic backs, and unexpected necklines, launched the presentation. A second look, inspired by strength and softness of the pink and green, fluted Bell flower, which is native to Barbados, revealed classic cuts and a '50s feel.

Her strongest look, 'the Beach Warriors', received wild applause. It was a stunning surprise for this writer to discover that the accessories were crafted and styled by Bermudian native, Barbados resident, and global artist Oneika Best Gibbons, who is known professionally as Blak Kla Soyl (pronounced 'black clay soil'). I was fortunate to meet with both designers and discuss their inspiration.

Ashakai's Ms Balgobin was unrepentant in her nationalistic fervour, and her designs conveyed how intensely she was driven to express her Bajan-ness in her designs. Her swimsuits were intended as a translation of her regard for the organic beauty of her home, while her choice of music by Barbados' legendary El Verno Del Congo, the recently deceased father of Bermudian visual artist, songstress and designer Blak Kla Soyl, registered another Barbadian element. Ashakai had commissioned Blak Kla Soyl to create a jewellery collection and accessories to vibe with her 2008 collection, and vibe it did as the international models strode down the runway in unique pieces lovingly crafted from hemp rope, rocks and shells, unique plant material and natural beads sourced from Barbados and her travels through Africa. The jewellery was designed to be suitable for frolicking on land, sand and sea.

Transplanted Bermudian Blak Kla Soyl explained how much respect the Barbados government accorded its native art forms, including fashion, music, food, dance and visual art and said that, as an artist, she too had benefitted from her Barbadian roots. Not only had the government sponsored her to represent the country with her music at the international African festival, Pan Afest, but also, as a designer, had sent her to show at St. Thomas Fashion Week.

The Future of Fashion in Bermuda

Asked for her perception of Bermuda's fashion scene, Blak Kla Soyl responded: "Fashion has always been a central part of Bermuda. Walking up and down Front Street you can see what I mean. My father was Barbadian, and I am proud of that, but I was born and bred in Bermuda, and I would love to also represent the country of my birth."

She then went on to name internationally-recognised designers Michelle Fray and Dwayne Paynter as individuals who have been icons of Bermuda fashion's recent past, and also raved about Amethyst, Zazi, Carlene Stovell and Mujahji Tokunbo, all of whom are in her sights as top representatives of Bermuda's fashion industry.

As to the future of fashion on the island, Oneika had a message for Bermuda.

"It is imperative for the Ministry of Cultural Affairs and Social Rehabilitation to help develop the indigenous people of Bermuda and start the organisation and funding for all of these international events. Barbados assists its people. We leave because we are stagnant, and we have to go elsewhere. Bermuda is losing sons and daughters of the soil to other countries because, in order for us to get ahead, we must migrate. It is unfair that we have to travel before we can achieve 'legitimacy and support' in our respective arts."

While Minister of Cultural Affairs and Social Rehabilitation Dale Butler offered congratulations to the Bermudian designers, he said that the current 2008 budget could not support these recent presentations. However, he has earmarked grants for 2009 for Bermuda's indigenous arts, including fashion, film, visual arts and literature, for which candidates will be required to submit formal requests for consideration.