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September - a month of transition

Urns and amphoras can be used to stunning effect in a garden - when they contain plants and flowers and qwhen they don't.

The downside of summer is upon us, hopefully with lower temperatures being the order of the day, and the chance of hurricanes diminishing by the week.

I am hoping this will be a realty for when this column appears in print, I will be somewhere in the Baltic area, checking out the landscape wherever I go. Travelling can certainly broaden the mind and makes one realise that trying something different is often worthwhile.

I often find situations where I am asked to design an area which in reality is a difficult 'shape' often being a narrow planter or odd shaped garden area in a corner. It is often the case that several types' plantings have been tried without success, the reason being the plantings were the wrong choice for the area in the first place because on most occasions they grew too large for the area in which planted.

Plants do not necessarily make a landscape, it is how they are used within the landscape that makes the impact and fulfills the need. Plant selection is important if a plant is to be used to make the statement, potential height, shape outline, flowering habit all play apart.

A single plant with character and architectural outline can be highlighted by an under-planting of for example black mondo grass, simple and effective, no overcrowding just a single statement and with up-lighting it could look even more dramatic. Plants to consider as single specimen planting, Cycas revoluta - Sago; Cycas circinalis - Queen Sago, both require a good area size-wise but they are slow growing. Zamia sp. has a similar habit to Cycas but a lighter foliage and more pronounced foliage.

Beaucarnea recurvata - Pony-tail, relatively slow growing as it matures the base of the trunk 'swells' creating an interesting outline to the plant. The 'less vigorous' bamboo if constrained offers a dull area an interesting comment, simply by its presence. For the palm enthusiast, consider the Lady palm - Rhapis excelsa which though in time can attain some height is more interesting regards it's clumping habit with new shoots being produced from its base.

Taking the theme to the next step, perhaps a statue or artifact might be the answer, again under-planted with a low growing grass or purely a hard landscape with interesting stones of various hues or simply black pebbles.

Urns, amphora or other types of containers if placed correctly can create a stunning effect, with or without plants; they can be placed on a 'bed' of low growing plants or simply stone, brick or pebbles to create the desired ambience. Front entrances - front doors - can be highlighted in a similar manner to create an immediate visual impact with the design being regularly re-configured thus generating continued interest with a revolving landscape.

One often sees rocks used in the landscape, the problem here is most of these designs end up being gardens of rock and not rock gardens, the latter being a difficult subject in Bermuda simply because of growth rates and lack of suitable material to attempt to create same. Placing rocks in the landscape can defeat the objective as plants often outgrow the 'static' rock, therefore hiding the original feature.

I am not a lover of Bermuda rocks (stone) in the landscape except when used in dry stack walling. When larger rocks make a statement they are usually of granite, marble or imported rock type with shape texture and character; these attributes however must be complementary to the surrounds in which they are exhibited.

Dull areas around the house especially blank walls can be livened up with a trellis or pergola like structure, using vines to cover the trellis. A small table and chair on a hard surface even a wooden deck will enhance the function of the area as well as bringing it back to life.

Annuals can make a sea of colour when in flower the problem is they take quite awhile before one sees the flowers. To overcome this problem grow seedlings in a three to four inch pot and wait for buds to start to open, at this stage plant about nine inches apart.

These should start to fill out and flower immediately if watered and fed regularly; thereafter start the next batch of seedlings and when the buds start to open immediately plant these, regardless of the condition of the existing plants. This ongoing exercise ensures a continuous bang of colour for specific areas, whilst reducing weed control and loss of young plantings to pest and disease problems. Changing with the seasons this adds and complements other flowering plants in the garden.

I mentioned earlier using statuary and artifacts around the house this idea can be taken further afield by literally creatfurther afield by literally creating focal points in garden settings or as a collection on a manicured lawn. Some good examples of this can be seen in Par-la-Ville Park with stone work and metalwork being displayed, whilst creating a symbiotic relationship within the landscape with some pieces being placed in a prominent position on the lawn. Creating a patio in the middle of the lawn offers the viewer a three hundred and sixty degree view of the garden and even the house takes on a different perspective.

The cooler weather gives one a chance to review the garden in a different perspective, there is nothing as constant as change, especially when it can breathe new life into something. The garden is an extension of the house so use it to its best advantage; it may be taxing initially but think an idea through to its conclusion, the result may be better than you anticipated, and with no addition to your land tax!